Eclipse Ego Frequently Asked Questions


Q: What tank should I use for the Ego?
A: Eclipse reccomends using a HP tank, but if you must use LP, only use a Crossfire, because the recharge is so fast!


Q: What hopper should I use on the Ego?
A: If you have the old detents, I would reccomend an Eggy for security, but you can use a halo, and I personally have used a Reloader b with a 4 battery pack with no problems, HOWEVER, when the new BLACK detents arrive, feel free to use anything you want!


Q: What are some good, legal settings, that'll still be fast?
A: Stock. =) If you don't like that, try putting your Tol to 20-30, and band to 65


Q: Where is my serial number?
A: Take off your battery, you will find it under there!


Q: Why am I chopping?
A: Try a ball setting of 2, and make sure your loader isnt too powerful if you are using the old detents, also, lube your ram and clean your eyes!


Q: Why is the ego so slow dry firing?
A: Access your settings, go into Timing, and raise the ROF to 30. But beware, if your eyes fail in a game, you are now shooting 30 bps with eyes off, so tryputting it to 15-17 bps.


Q: What is the maintenence on the Ego?
A: It's very low, lubing the ram, bolt o rings, and LPR, just like most others.


Q: What is the optimal LPR setting?
A: Eclipse reccomends flush with the cap, so trust them! Personally, I use 2-3 turns past flush


Q: What bore size is the stock shaft?
A: .691 I believe


Q: What is the Ego?
A: The Ego is a breed of it's own, some say its a cocker and a timmy combined, others call it a Matrix without the spool valve design, whatever it is, It beats the hell out of every other gun out there!


Q: What is the Empty and Ball setting?
A: Empty = Amount of time the eyes need to see the breech with nothing in it to be considered "Empty"
Ball = The amount of time the eyes need to see the ball in there to shoot!


Q: How is the Effeciency?
A: 1700 shots on a 68/45 have been recorded mostly, others have gotten 1800 or more!


Q: How about consistency?
A: +-4 without regs being broken in, and abut +-2 with them broken in!


Q: How is the stock on/off?
A: Very good, requires little to no effort to turn on and off, I love it!


Q: Is it an E2 frame?
A: Not it isn't, just E2 style grips!


Q: Should I buy one?
A: Yes.


Q: How much are they?
A: $1195 new



Q: Okay, now that you told me to buy one, where can I get one!
A: www.froogle.com search

A little expansion on the FAQs:

Q: What are the filter parameters and what do they control?

TT BAND
This parameter defines the operating range of the TT Filter in terms of trigger movement. The larger the TT Band, the less the gun is able to bounce.

TT TOL
This is the tolerance of bounce. If it's low, it wont tolerate anything it detects as bounce, if its higher it will accept the bounce as complete trigger pulls. Works similar to debounce, only differing in that raising it up means more bounce

Q: Why is the feedneck offset?
A: Prevents balls from bouncing up, further cutting back on the possibility of chopping

Q: Gun won't shoot above (insert low velocity here), what's up!?!?!?
A: Lube your bolt o-rings, rammer o-rings, and LPR

All FAQs and answers courtesy of Mr. Moose at Egoowners.com

Removing Stock Macroline:

The new macro fittings Eclipse is using on their Egos can frustrate some at times, seeing as how they apparently have a death grip on the macroline itself. These fittings require a lot of pressure to release the line, so here is a good tip if you find yourself unable to remove your line. Take a rag and put pressure on the fitting ring, you will see that it takes the sting out of putting that pressure on, making it much easier to depress. Using the other portion of the rag, grasp the line itself and pull it away from the fitting.

Compressed Air Tank FAQ:

Q:What tank should I use for the EGO??

A: Eclipse recommends the use of a HP compressed air tank. A stock EGO (with dwell around 8-10), will have an operating pressure of around 300-350psi. This means almost any HP tank will work. Every tank is basically the same (other than construction and dimensions) but not all the regulators on them are the same.

Q:What about a LP tank?

A: An LP tank is fine as long as the regulator on the tank has a fast recharge rate, stays consistent, and has a high enough flow rate. The unwanted problem when using an LP is shootdown, meaning your HPR is starved. This will not happen if your LP tank's reg is high flowing and recharges fast.

Crossfires: Yes. LP or HP works. Known for consistency and speed on the recharge. Those lucky enough to get a GCI bottle on their Crossfires before it ran out (carbon fiber shortage) are set. SCI bottles are ok (what Crossfire used in 04) but noticebly heavier and longer than the GCI. Carleton bottles fall somewhere in between. I use a 70/4500 LP crossfire as well as an HP version, and I have not noticed any difference in performance between the two.

Legion Air: Yes. LP or HP works. Very consistent and zero shoot down. GCI or Luxfer bottles. Both very light and small. (GCI being the smallest)

PMI Pure Energy: HP will work. LP spring stack (500psi) will work as well but not on the consistent side. Recharges fast enough so there are no shoot downs though. Pin valve design could be a little better but nothing major.

Angel AIR screw in: Very similar to the PMI Pure Energy.

Dye Throttle: Some like them, some don't. Independent testing have showed poor results with them.

WGP Worr Gas: HP is fine.

Nitro Duck: Never used the 4500 Plasma before and not sure what the output is. But if its HP, then it should be fine. LP, I can't vouch for it since I never used one. But the Xtream adjustable is not bad. Some does rattle a little and doesn't give that solid feel. It goes away once it's gased up though.

Q: I have an adjustable. What pressure should I set it to?

A: Slowly tune down your tank until you experience shootdown. Add 100 psi or so and you should be fine. If you did that and still experience shootdowns, up it a little more. If you have to raise it over 250psi and you know its not the HPR, LPR or other external factors then its the reg on the tank needing a clean and relube. Possibly a rebuild. Or, the reg is just plain bad in design.

Q: But doesn't Planet recommend HP.

A: HP is the safest answer since they have no idea what tank you are going to buy. If they said LP tanks will work and you end up getting some poor quality LP tank off Ebay with a dirty reg and it doesn't work, no one wants you to blame them.

Q: Is a LP tank easier on the HPR?

A: In theory, yes. Don't worry about that though. The pressure may be twice as much, but that does not mean it will wear out twice as fast. It just doesn't work that way. You're not going to get worried about an .25 cent oring wearing out in a year instead of a year and two months right?

And obviously DO NOT use CO2.

A good tip I learned with bottles. Do not always leave the tank completely empty. Leave atleast 200 psi or so in it. This will prevent any condensation build up inside the bottle. The outside may be carbon fiber, but the inside is still aluminum. Aluminum is a very porous material, so its easy for condensation to get trapped in it. It also helps keep pressure on the valve pin seal.

Courtesy of BUMP PB at Pbnation.com

Eclipse Contact Information:

Email Addresses:
info@planeteclipse.com
eclipsehelp@aol.com

Mailing Addresses/Phone Numbers

US Office:

Planet Eclipse Ltd
84 Cutler Street Suite No.4
Warren, Rhode Island 02885
phone: (401)-247-9061
fax: (401)-247-0931

UK Office:

Planet Eclipse Ltd
Units 7 & 8
Southfield Ind Est.
Trafford Park, England
M17 1SJ
phone: +44-(0)-161-872-5572
fax: +44-(0)-161-872-5972

Trigger Removal/Installation

Begin by referring to the manual on how to remove the grip frame from the body.

Looking in from the top of the trigger frame, loosen the trigger pin screw. The trigger pin should now slide out with no effort or a nudge with a hex key.



Now that the pin is out, go back to that same screw and screw it back in until its flushed with the trigger.



Slide the trigger forward just a little bit. Now pivot the trigger downward and remove the trigger from the right side of the trigger guard.





It should come out with very little effort. If it feels stuck, do not force it.

Just follow the last 3 pics in reverse to install your new trigger back in. Make sure that the trigger pin screw on your new trigger is flush at the top before putting it back in.

Now go to the trigger pin screw and unscrew it until the pivot hole is totally unobstructed. The pin should slide right in. If its not, unscrew the same screw some more. Slide the pin in. Slowly tighten the screw until you feel it touch the pin. Give it a 1/8 turn to tighten it. It’s a small screw so DO NOT over tighten or crank it in.



A tip from Jack Wood. When tightening the pivot pin screw, put pressure on the trigger against the right of grip frame. This will prevent the screw from kinking to the side, causing the tang to not fully register through the optical, leading to missed shots.

I so thought the title said Ego ***...

dont worry so did i....

Tuning your Ego:

The method to setting your LPR/dwell/velocity posted below was recommended by Jack Wood from Planet Eclipse. In no way should this be considered the only method or perfect method to tuning and setting up your marker correctly. All methods below provided courtesy of Jack Wood and dmansr25sd at pbnation.

Originally posted by Jack Woods:

"The first thing I would recommend...is to increase the dwell up to 9, and maybe even 9.5-10.0. Some guns that leave the factory have to have the dwell raised over the standard 8.0 ms in order to reach higher, more consistent readings, so it is normal and nothing to be concerned about. It is just a fact of life that some solenoids/QEVs require a slightly longer electrical pulse to achieve a consistent rammer pulse." -Jack Wood

"That depends very much on the gun. The only way to set it perfectly is to keep upping the dwell over the chrono. Stop upping the dwell when the velocity peaks, and then bring it back down a couple of points. That should give maximum velocity for minimum dwell. Obviously every time you alter the LPR you should do this again to get it absolutely spot on. Also, if you find you get a massive gain in velocity when you start upping the dwell (i.e. it sends the velocity 320-330+) then bring the in-line pressure down, leave the LPR and double check the dwell by dropping it and raising it back to the peak velocity. Basically it is a very delicate interplay between in-line pressure (because that is what stops the valve from opening AND what fires the ball out) LPR pressure, valve dwell and hammer/bolt/pin mass."

Based upon those two posts these two steps arise:

1. Set LPR to the point you want (Mine is currently at 2 turns in from flush, and many suggest that this is the perfect setting)
2. Keep raising the dwell over the chrono until it peaks, unless it jumps above 320-330, in which case you should lower your inline pressure a little, lower the dwell a bit and continue to raise again until it peaks. Once you reach that peak the dwell can be lowered slightly, yielding your optimal dwell/LPR setting.

I have also noticed that if you just raise your dwell until the gun seems most consistent it works just as well, but keep in mind you will want some high quality paint to get accurate readings.

*NOTE* Settings aren't magic, they can't do anything beyond tune your gun and make it more or less bouncy. But as you have read not one set of settings will have the same effect on all egos, every ego is different, and for that matter every ego solenoid has a dwell at which it operates most efficently resulting in the best consistency.

As for bounce eliminating settings it is next to impossible to share settings with somebody and hope that it will eliminate bounce, the best that you can do is to get some good baselines to work off of and tweak them with your own trigger. So don't rely on someone else's settings hoping to find one that works, simply use them as a reference point from which you can find the optimal settings for your marker.

Ego Maintainence Videos:

Planet Eclipse has graciously provided informational videos that go over all of the essential maintainence required for the Ego marker.

The videos go over cleaning the break beam eyes, relubing the bolt and rammer, and relubing the LPR and HPR.

Here is a link to the videos, which can be found in the download section on PE's website: Eclipse Ego Maintainence Videos