"Gryphyn" <paintwiz@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1122955591.527637.206120@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Hey I just bought my first autococker with money from mowing lawns.
> I've been playing about four years and I'm 13. Does anyone have any
> suggestions/tips/parts recomendations for me. And please do not not
> start a rant on me buying this and being one of those rich speedballing
> kids, nothing against speedball of course. But I have a feeling most
> here frown upon things such as that. And if it helps you with
> recommending stuff, I play mostly woodsball and scenario games, so I'm
> not interested in parts that make the gun superfast. Thank you.

An adjustable secondary regulator. Nothing sucks more ass than trying to
dial in a cocker with that hidden velocity adjuster bastard. I hate that
thing so much. So, I adjust the speed from the velocity nut whenever I take
it apart(which is like never), and the use the PALMER'S STABILIZER to adjust
the velocity from that point forward. Plus which, it also makes your gun a
lot more stable in terms of velocity. Only bad thing, it's almost $100.
So, that's a few lawns to mow. Palmers is my personal preference, but I
find it to be one of the best made regulators on the market. There are
other options out there, some cheaper, some more expensive, just make sure
it's an ADJUSTABLE regulator so you don't have to adjust your velocity by
taking out your cocking rod. It just *SUCKS* to chrono by taking it out,
adjusting it, then putting the cocking rod back in, firing a few shots and
repeating for like an hour.

If you have an aftermarket barrel, ANY aftermarket barrel, it will be fine,
don't replace it. If you have a stock barrel, I would replace it with a
relatively cheap mid size barrel, the J&J Ceramic is a good choice there,
the All American is pretty good as well. Both are inexpensive(~$40),
accurate, rugged and reliable. Personal preference is to the J&J Ceramic.

As far as the guts go, if the pneumatics and bolt are working, don't mess
with them, it's only a requirement to change those if you REALLY want
performance, and I mean barely noticable but high end performance. The
stock parts will last you for QUITE a while. Most of the difference between
stock and aftermarket pneumatics lay in the "stickiness" of the operation.
The stock pneumatics feel sort of "sticky" in comparison to aftermarket
ones. It's hard to explain, but the difference is not terribly much.

Eventually(not right away), you'll probably want a trigger job, though, done
by someone who knows what they are doing. If your friend says he can do it,
tell him to shove it up his ass, and then take your gun to a PROFESSIONAL
AIRSMITH. When it comes to the trigger tinkering to do with a cocker, DO
NOT TRUST YOUR FRIEND!!! He may *THINK* he knows what he's doing, until he
comes back to you with a towel full of parts and says "I dunno, it just sort
of... OH LOOK! BUNT CAKE!!! *run*" And for the love of all that is holy in
paintball don't do it yourself. We would be able to taste your tears of
shame splattered all over your monitor, and we would have no pity for you.

Oh, and get a motorized hopper(fairly soon). I find that the lower end ones
work fine for quite a while, and you can always upgrade later. You can
probably pick up a decent one for about $50 or so. It won't be top of the
line, but it'll do nicely for quite a while.

My order:
Barrel
Hopper
Regulator
Trigger Job
Pneumatics

--
Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
It's not a god complex when you're always right

I would have to disagree with some of that... there is a reason why WGP
does not certify airsmiths anymore, because it is easy as heck to work
on your marker if you know what you are doing. I am assuming that you
are comming from a slider background with cockers? The new hinge
triggers are a piece of cake to work on. I've had my trigger completely
apart and back together with no problems at all.

Also, stock pneus on a cocker are not really bad at all, in fact a lot
of people prefer the stock WGP pneus. There really is no point in
upgrading your pneus other than the 3 way and *maybe* an adjustable LPR
if you wanna really fine tune the marker for fast efficient operation.
The only reason to replace the 3 way is to shortent he pull of the
trigger, and the STO ram is the industry standard for rams.

New cockers today come with some really good equipment. Heck my outkast
even came with an adjustable inline. The only things I plan on
upgrading in the near future is going to an orracle 3-way (CT 3way, with
an adjuster knob), a kaner barrel system, and some cosmetic stuff (like
low riding the LPR and adding a guage) I plan on doing my own trigger
job when I install the 3-way.

Jeff Goslin wrote:
> "Gryphyn" <paintwiz@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1122955591.527637.206120@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Hey I just bought my first autococker with money from mowing lawns.
>>I've been playing about four years and I'm 13. Does anyone have any
>>suggestions/tips/parts recomendations for me. And please do not not
>>start a rant on me buying this and being one of those rich speedballing
>>kids, nothing against speedball of course. But I have a feeling most
>>here frown upon things such as that. And if it helps you with
>>recommending stuff, I play mostly woodsball and scenario games, so I'm
>>not interested in parts that make the gun superfast. Thank you.
>
>
> An adjustable secondary regulator. Nothing sucks more ass than trying to
> dial in a cocker with that hidden velocity adjuster bastard. I hate that
> thing so much. So, I adjust the speed from the velocity nut whenever I take
> it apart(which is like never), and the use the PALMER'S STABILIZER to adjust
> the velocity from that point forward. Plus which, it also makes your gun a
> lot more stable in terms of velocity. Only bad thing, it's almost $100.
> So, that's a few lawns to mow. Palmers is my personal preference, but I
> find it to be one of the best made regulators on the market. There are
> other options out there, some cheaper, some more expensive, just make sure
> it's an ADJUSTABLE regulator so you don't have to adjust your velocity by
> taking out your cocking rod. It just *SUCKS* to chrono by taking it out,
> adjusting it, then putting the cocking rod back in, firing a few shots and
> repeating for like an hour.
>
> If you have an aftermarket barrel, ANY aftermarket barrel, it will be fine,
> don't replace it. If you have a stock barrel, I would replace it with a
> relatively cheap mid size barrel, the J&J Ceramic is a good choice there,
> the All American is pretty good as well. Both are inexpensive(~$40),
> accurate, rugged and reliable. Personal preference is to the J&J Ceramic.
>
> As far as the guts go, if the pneumatics and bolt are working, don't mess
> with them, it's only a requirement to change those if you REALLY want
> performance, and I mean barely noticable but high end performance. The
> stock parts will last you for QUITE a while. Most of the difference between
> stock and aftermarket pneumatics lay in the "stickiness" of the operation.
> The stock pneumatics feel sort of "sticky" in comparison to aftermarket
> ones. It's hard to explain, but the difference is not terribly much.
>
> Eventually(not right away), you'll probably want a trigger job, though, done
> by someone who knows what they are doing. If your friend says he can do it,
> tell him to shove it up his ass, and then take your gun to a PROFESSIONAL
> AIRSMITH. When it comes to the trigger tinkering to do with a cocker, DO
> NOT TRUST YOUR FRIEND!!! He may *THINK* he knows what he's doing, until he
> comes back to you with a towel full of parts and says "I dunno, it just sort
> of... OH LOOK! BUNT CAKE!!! *run*" And for the love of all that is holy in
> paintball don't do it yourself. We would be able to taste your tears of
> shame splattered all over your monitor, and we would have no pity for you.
>
> Oh, and get a motorized hopper(fairly soon). I find that the lower end ones
> work fine for quite a while, and you can always upgrade later. You can
> probably pick up a decent one for about $50 or so. It won't be top of the
> line, but it'll do nicely for quite a while.
>
> My order:
> Barrel
> Hopper
> Regulator
> Trigger Job
> Pneumatics
>

"Jesse Felt" <sitting@thefeetofjesus.com> wrote in message
news:OgSHe.3297$_t.2645@okepread01...
> I would have to disagree with some of that... there is a reason why WGP
> does not certify airsmiths anymore, because it is easy as heck to work
> on your marker if you know what you are doing.

"if you know what you are doing..." That's a key phrase. If you *DON'T*
know what you're doing, kiss your timing goodbye forever until you find
someone who really DOES know what they are doing.

The long and short of it is that if you don't know what you're doing, you
can REALLY **** up a cocker if you decide to get curious. Most other guns,
there isn't much you can really screw up, but on a cocker, you can REALLY
screw some stuff up if you adjust the wrong screws.

I work under the assumption that someone who posts such an obvious newbie
question about a cocker doesn't know what they are doing, and therefore
should not be messing with things like timing and trigger work. Call me
crazy, I guess.

--
Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
It's not a god complex when you're always right

> I am assuming that you are comming from a slider background with cockers?

About slider triggers, that was the trigger that came on my cocker.
Should that be an important upgrade?

unless you MUST have a 2 finger trigger, a hinge is probably pointles..

Gryphyn wrote:
> > I am assuming that you are comming from a slider background with cockers?
>
> About slider triggers, that was the trigger that came on my cocker.
> Should that be an important upgrade?

Agreed, a lot of people actually prefer a slider to a hinge... I
personally am more comfortable with a hinge so I enjoy it. You can get
much shorter trigger pull with a slider too... just the nature ofthe
beast really..

I am guessing that you picked it up used then since WGP does not use
sliders anymore... in that case much of what I was saying regarding the
pneumatics *could* be different, depending on the actual year of the
marker... Which one did you pick up?


Jeff, WHile I understand where you are comming from, cockers aren't that
complex. Unless you start actually opening your regs up and pulling the
parts off. Yes, you can mess things up with your cocker, but the best
way to learn is to do... if learning how to assemble your cocker is all
that stands between you and a day on the field, you will learn how to do
that job.. And with so much resources on the net today, there is
really no mystery to cockers taht there used to be.

mad8 wrote:
> unless you MUST have a 2 finger trigger, a hinge is probably pointles..
>
> Gryphyn wrote:
>
>>>I am assuming that you are comming from a slider background with cockers?
>>
>>About slider triggers, that was the trigger that came on my cocker.
>>Should that be an important upgrade?
>
>

"Jesse Felt" <sitting@thefeetofjesus.com> wrote in message
newsfbIe.3482$_t.65@okepread01...
> Jeff, WHile I understand where you are comming from, cockers aren't that
> complex. Unless you start actually opening your regs up and pulling the
> parts off. Yes, you can mess things up with your cocker, but the best
> way to learn is to do... if learning how to assemble your cocker is all
> that stands between you and a day on the field, you will learn how to do
> that job.. And with so much resources on the net today, there is
> really no mystery to cockers taht there used to be.

I can't say I agree with your sentiment, not even remotely.

The human body is not much of a mystery either, but I wouldn't want to
perform self-surgery simply because I read about the procedure on WebMD.
I'm not saying cockers are as complex as the human body, of course, but
simply having the procedure written out is no guarantee that you can
accomplish your goal if you do it yourself.

I would *NEVER* advise someone who just purchased a cocker to take it apart
in ANY way, no more than I would advise a new car owner to rip apart their
car's engine. It's a bad idea in general to advise neophytes to perform
advanced repair and tuning procedures on ANY mechanical device they aren't
familiar with, even with a set of explicit directions.

I would personally prefer if you DIDN'T advise newbies to mess with their
cockers, because then we'll have a flood of "my cocker is broken" messages,
to which I will invariably be REQUIRED to respond "Well, you shouldn't have
fucked with it, now take it to an expert."

--
Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
It's not a god complex when you're always right

ANd I have to disagree with your sentiment, most cocker owners will tell
you first off, that you either work on your own marker or you get a
different marker. Cockers are not for ther person who wants to let
someone else fix it. They are fine machines and as such require some
tlc, if you don't know how to tear it apart and put it back together
then you will be wasting time waiting in the airsmith line when you
could have easily tweaked your timing on your own. Heck sweet spotting
your inline is a more complex procedure than diss/re-assembling a cocker.

Cockers are not that complex. At most they are a step beyond any blow
back style marker. in fact the only REAL fundamental difference between
a spyder and a cocker is the front end pneus that work the cocking
function. As far as those go, you can't really screw them up unless you
start pulling the reg apart. I would guess taht since this kid bought a
used, mechanical cocker he has a tiny bit of ability, and it capable of
making an intelligent decision whether to take on his cocker alone. In
fact there is nothing to suggest that he couldn't pull the thing apart,
totally screw it up and have it back to perfect stock condition in an
hour. Heck I did, and I didn't even do it at a table, I was onthe floor
in my living room.

They really are NOT that complex. It has been said more than once that
a cocker is a marker that you can fix yourself while the guys with
their electros are waiting for the airsmith to fix them. This is why I
mentioned air-powered.com, there is such a wealth of informatio there
for the noob cocker owner that there would never be a reason to post "I
brok my cocker, now what?" here on this forum... it's not liike anything
usefull ever gets discussed here anyways :lol:

Jeff Goslin wrote:
>
> I can't say I agree with your sentiment, not even remotely.
>
> The human body is not much of a mystery either, but I wouldn't want to
> perform self-surgery simply because I read about the procedure on WebMD.
> I'm not saying cockers are as complex as the human body, of course, but
> simply having the procedure written out is no guarantee that you can
> accomplish your goal if you do it yourself.
>
> I would *NEVER* advise someone who just purchased a cocker to take it apart
> in ANY way, no more than I would advise a new car owner to rip apart their
> car's engine. It's a bad idea in general to advise neophytes to perform
> advanced repair and tuning procedures on ANY mechanical device they aren't
> familiar with, even with a set of explicit directions.
>
> I would personally prefer if you DIDN'T advise newbies to mess with their
> cockers, because then we'll have a flood of "my cocker is broken" messages,
> to which I will invariably be REQUIRED to respond "Well, you shouldn't have
> fucked with it, now take it to an expert."
>