"RH" <rhall50@aol.com> wrote in message
news:sb4l111ao3ib25e1g2ps6qmsvqruujamgb@4ax.com...
> Blaze and X-Ball Bronze. In both cases the ball just rolled right
> through as if they were perhaps too small. As some of you noted in
> response to my other question the Draxxus Blaze may be an old or bad
> batch because they are the ones I noted in my other post that spin
> away at odd angles after leaving the barrel. Can anyone recommend a
> paintball that would be well suited to the J&J Ceramic barrel?

PMI Paints always seemed to work well for me.

However, that said, you seem to have fallen for one of the classic marketing
hype situations of paintball. The notion that a paintball which rolls
through a barrel would somehow be affected after it has already LEFT the
barrel is something you should immediately dispel from a list of possible
reasons.

A paintball travelling at 280 fps is within the confines of the
barrel(assuming a 12" barrel) for appoximately 0.0036 seconds. Assuming the
barrel is not totally fucked to begin with, the paint has not got the time
to do anything other than go straight ahead(relatively speaking). In other
words, impacting the side of the barrel will have VERY little impact on the
flight path of the ball. Yes, admittedly, it will have some minimal amount
of impact on the ball, as noted by a *SLIGHTLY* larger grouping of an
illfitting ball(not a statistically valid impact, I might add). That
granted, hooks and slices of paintballs in wacky directions have MUCH more
to do with air resistance on misshapen balls and paintball weight
distribution than ANYTHING else.

A paintball that is GROTESQUELY small for the barrel is, what, 0.01 inches
smaller than the barrel itself? In terms of size ratio in a 12" barrel,
that represents a 1200 to 1 size differential ratio. You'll notice that
after 50 feet of travel, in that it results in a *slightly* larger grouping,
but it cannot POSSIBLY be the cause of paintball hooks and slices literally
feet off course.

What can have a DRAMATIC impact are two things: imperfect spheres and
imperfect weight distribution. The weight distribution is not as big of a
factor, but if a ball has the majority of the density of it's fill on one
side of the ball, the ball will wobble in flight, like a water balloon.
This would, of course, impact accuracy. What is the biggest culprit is
dimples in the ball. Simple aerodynamics would indicate that a ball with a
SINGLE dimple would necessarily have a spin in the direction the air blew
that dimple when it provided resistance to the ball. Low vs High pressure
on different sides of the sphere is basically all there is to it. Balls
with seams and balls with dimples are likely to be most affected by air
resistance, and therefore more likely to fly off course. This is, of
course, regardless of the barrel used to shoot them(flatline excepted).

*PLEASE* do not believe what people say when it comes to paint to barrel
match. It is a blatant bunch of mythology that is used to sell more barrels
and crap that you don't need. Your J&J Ceramic is a FINE barrel. It's
medium bore, and should work just fine with most any decent paint, "decent"
being the key word there.

--
Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
It's not a god complex when you're always right

gee wiz, when I had direct hit paint nobody would listen to me , it was
paint to barrel and that was all they knew. I still laugh at the same folks
who now pay $ 20 bucks more a case and don't even know it.Yes Jeff my cousin
who was the chief reliability engineer for NASA came with the formula and
also produced the paint with a gel-cap company he is VP of. Stopped because
to many morons could not get it about paint to barrel and how little it
really meant.
"Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jMWdna-p0MywhobfRVn-jw@comcast.com...
> "RH" <rhall50@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:sb4l111ao3ib25e1g2ps6qmsvqruujamgb@4ax.com...
> > Blaze and X-Ball Bronze. In both cases the ball just rolled right
> > through as if they were perhaps too small. As some of you noted in
> > response to my other question the Draxxus Blaze may be an old or bad
> > batch because they are the ones I noted in my other post that spin
> > away at odd angles after leaving the barrel. Can anyone recommend a
> > paintball that would be well suited to the J&J Ceramic barrel?
>
> PMI Paints always seemed to work well for me.
>
> However, that said, you seem to have fallen for one of the classic
marketing
> hype situations of paintball. The notion that a paintball which rolls
> through a barrel would somehow be affected after it has already LEFT the
> barrel is something you should immediately dispel from a list of possible
> reasons.
>
> A paintball travelling at 280 fps is within the confines of the
> barrel(assuming a 12" barrel) for appoximately 0.0036 seconds. Assuming
the
> barrel is not totally fucked to begin with, the paint has not got the time
> to do anything other than go straight ahead(relatively speaking). In
other
> words, impacting the side of the barrel will have VERY little impact on
the
> flight path of the ball. Yes, admittedly, it will have some minimal
amount
> of impact on the ball, as noted by a *SLIGHTLY* larger grouping of an
> illfitting ball(not a statistically valid impact, I might add). That
> granted, hooks and slices of paintballs in wacky directions have MUCH more
> to do with air resistance on misshapen balls and paintball weight
> distribution than ANYTHING else.
>
> A paintball that is GROTESQUELY small for the barrel is, what, 0.01 inches
> smaller than the barrel itself? In terms of size ratio in a 12" barrel,
> that represents a 1200 to 1 size differential ratio. You'll notice that
> after 50 feet of travel, in that it results in a *slightly* larger
grouping,
> but it cannot POSSIBLY be the cause of paintball hooks and slices
literally
> feet off course.
>
> What can have a DRAMATIC impact are two things: imperfect spheres and
> imperfect weight distribution. The weight distribution is not as big of a
> factor, but if a ball has the majority of the density of it's fill on one
> side of the ball, the ball will wobble in flight, like a water balloon.
> This would, of course, impact accuracy. What is the biggest culprit is
> dimples in the ball. Simple aerodynamics would indicate that a ball with
a
> SINGLE dimple would necessarily have a spin in the direction the air blew
> that dimple when it provided resistance to the ball. Low vs High pressure
> on different sides of the sphere is basically all there is to it. Balls
> with seams and balls with dimples are likely to be most affected by air
> resistance, and therefore more likely to fly off course. This is, of
> course, regardless of the barrel used to shoot them(flatline excepted).
>
> *PLEASE* do not believe what people say when it comes to paint to barrel
> match. It is a blatant bunch of mythology that is used to sell more
barrels
> and crap that you don't need. Your J&J Ceramic is a FINE barrel. It's
> medium bore, and should work just fine with most any decent paint,
"decent"
> being the key word there.
>
> --
> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>
>
>

Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its magic.
An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a spin.
Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.

What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?

John
"Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jMWdna-p0MywhobfRVn-jw@comcast.com...
> "RH" <rhall50@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:sb4l111ao3ib25e1g2ps6qmsvqruujamgb@4ax.com...
>> Blaze and X-Ball Bronze. In both cases the ball just rolled right
>> through as if they were perhaps too small. As some of you noted in
>> response to my other question the Draxxus Blaze may be an old or bad
>> batch because they are the ones I noted in my other post that spin
>> away at odd angles after leaving the barrel. Can anyone recommend a
>> paintball that would be well suited to the J&J Ceramic barrel?
>
> PMI Paints always seemed to work well for me.
>
> However, that said, you seem to have fallen for one of the classic
> marketing
> hype situations of paintball. The notion that a paintball which rolls
> through a barrel would somehow be affected after it has already LEFT the
> barrel is something you should immediately dispel from a list of possible
> reasons.
>
> A paintball travelling at 280 fps is within the confines of the
> barrel(assuming a 12" barrel) for appoximately 0.0036 seconds. Assuming
> the
> barrel is not totally fucked to begin with, the paint has not got the time
> to do anything other than go straight ahead(relatively speaking). In
> other
> words, impacting the side of the barrel will have VERY little impact on
> the
> flight path of the ball. Yes, admittedly, it will have some minimal
> amount
> of impact on the ball, as noted by a *SLIGHTLY* larger grouping of an
> illfitting ball(not a statistically valid impact, I might add). That
> granted, hooks and slices of paintballs in wacky directions have MUCH more
> to do with air resistance on misshapen balls and paintball weight
> distribution than ANYTHING else.
>
> A paintball that is GROTESQUELY small for the barrel is, what, 0.01 inches
> smaller than the barrel itself? In terms of size ratio in a 12" barrel,
> that represents a 1200 to 1 size differential ratio. You'll notice that
> after 50 feet of travel, in that it results in a *slightly* larger
> grouping,
> but it cannot POSSIBLY be the cause of paintball hooks and slices
> literally
> feet off course.
>
> What can have a DRAMATIC impact are two things: imperfect spheres and
> imperfect weight distribution. The weight distribution is not as big of a
> factor, but if a ball has the majority of the density of it's fill on one
> side of the ball, the ball will wobble in flight, like a water balloon.
> This would, of course, impact accuracy. What is the biggest culprit is
> dimples in the ball. Simple aerodynamics would indicate that a ball with
> a
> SINGLE dimple would necessarily have a spin in the direction the air blew
> that dimple when it provided resistance to the ball. Low vs High pressure
> on different sides of the sphere is basically all there is to it. Balls
> with seams and balls with dimples are likely to be most affected by air
> resistance, and therefore more likely to fly off course. This is, of
> course, regardless of the barrel used to shoot them(flatline excepted).
>
> *PLEASE* do not believe what people say when it comes to paint to barrel
> match. It is a blatant bunch of mythology that is used to sell more
> barrels
> and crap that you don't need. Your J&J Ceramic is a FINE barrel. It's
> medium bore, and should work just fine with most any decent paint,
> "decent"
> being the key word there.
>
> --
> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>
>
>

> What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?
> John


Microsoft Certified Solution Developer

lol "paintball degree"

lololololol


"John J." <detectorist@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:JNRSd.99497$qB6.21277@tornado.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its
> magic. An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a
> spin. Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.
>
> What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?
>
> John
> "Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:jMWdna-p0MywhobfRVn-jw@comcast.com...
>> "RH" <rhall50@aol.com> wrote in message
>> news:sb4l111ao3ib25e1g2ps6qmsvqruujamgb@4ax.com...
>>> Blaze and X-Ball Bronze. In both cases the ball just rolled right
>>> through as if they were perhaps too small. As some of you noted in
>>> response to my other question the Draxxus Blaze may be an old or bad
>>> batch because they are the ones I noted in my other post that spin
>>> away at odd angles after leaving the barrel. Can anyone recommend a
>>> paintball that would be well suited to the J&J Ceramic barrel?
>>
>> PMI Paints always seemed to work well for me.
>>
>> However, that said, you seem to have fallen for one of the classic
>> marketing
>> hype situations of paintball. The notion that a paintball which rolls
>> through a barrel would somehow be affected after it has already LEFT the
>> barrel is something you should immediately dispel from a list of possible
>> reasons.
>>
>> A paintball travelling at 280 fps is within the confines of the
>> barrel(assuming a 12" barrel) for appoximately 0.0036 seconds. Assuming
>> the
>> barrel is not totally fucked to begin with, the paint has not got the
>> time
>> to do anything other than go straight ahead(relatively speaking). In
>> other
>> words, impacting the side of the barrel will have VERY little impact on
>> the
>> flight path of the ball. Yes, admittedly, it will have some minimal
>> amount
>> of impact on the ball, as noted by a *SLIGHTLY* larger grouping of an
>> illfitting ball(not a statistically valid impact, I might add). That
>> granted, hooks and slices of paintballs in wacky directions have MUCH
>> more
>> to do with air resistance on misshapen balls and paintball weight
>> distribution than ANYTHING else.
>>
>> A paintball that is GROTESQUELY small for the barrel is, what, 0.01
>> inches
>> smaller than the barrel itself? In terms of size ratio in a 12" barrel,
>> that represents a 1200 to 1 size differential ratio. You'll notice that
>> after 50 feet of travel, in that it results in a *slightly* larger
>> grouping,
>> but it cannot POSSIBLY be the cause of paintball hooks and slices
>> literally
>> feet off course.
>>
>> What can have a DRAMATIC impact are two things: imperfect spheres and
>> imperfect weight distribution. The weight distribution is not as big of
>> a
>> factor, but if a ball has the majority of the density of it's fill on one
>> side of the ball, the ball will wobble in flight, like a water balloon.
>> This would, of course, impact accuracy. What is the biggest culprit is
>> dimples in the ball. Simple aerodynamics would indicate that a ball with
>> a
>> SINGLE dimple would necessarily have a spin in the direction the air blew
>> that dimple when it provided resistance to the ball. Low vs High
>> pressure
>> on different sides of the sphere is basically all there is to it. Balls
>> with seams and balls with dimples are likely to be most affected by air
>> resistance, and therefore more likely to fly off course. This is, of
>> course, regardless of the barrel used to shoot them(flatline excepted).
>>
>> *PLEASE* do not believe what people say when it comes to paint to barrel
>> match. It is a blatant bunch of mythology that is used to sell more
>> barrels
>> and crap that you don't need. Your J&J Ceramic is a FINE barrel. It's
>> medium bore, and should work just fine with most any decent paint,
>> "decent"
>> being the key word there.
>>
>> --
>> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
>> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>>
>>
>>
>
>

"John J." <detectorist@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:JNRSd.99497$qB6.21277@tornado.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its
magic.
> An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a spin.

Yes, the mechanism of intentional barrel side impact is the exact method by
which the flatline works. Of course, you neglect to mention that the sides
of the flatline are specifically surfaced in such a way to induce friction
as the ball passes, thus inducing the spin. As has been said many times
before, polish out the inside of a flatline, and it ceases to work. IN
OTHER WORDS, if you fired a paintball down a polished barrel, without any
surface friction to induce spin, odds are good it's not going to spin no
matter how many times it impacts the side of the barrel along it's path out
the other end, as is evidenced by a polished flatline barrel, with that
wicked ass curve in the thing.

Yes, friction can cause spin, and does in the flatline, but most aftermarket
barrels are pretty meticulously polished to remove such friction, and as
such, friction does not impact the paintball tremendously, regardless of how
much it hits the sides of the barrel.

Therefore, the only remaining accuracy issue with regard to touching the
sides of the barrel is the amount of play from the last time the ball hits a
side and when it leaves the barrel itself. At 75 feet, assuming a WILDLY
out of size paintball where you have 0.01" of wiggle room, this produces a
shot that can potentially be off course by less than an inch, and that
assumes the maximum variation of paintball direction, NOT the average
variation, which would result in a far smaller deviation from target. Less
than one inch at 75 feet. That means that, barring ANY OTHER FACTOR, a gun
shooting perfectly round and nondimpled fresh paint, in perfect
environmental conditions, and at precise speeds, should expect a bench
variation of less than ONE INCH at 75 feet, based simply on marker physics.
Of course, this assumes a level of "perfection" we rarely see, but still, we
see that the barrel itself rarely can impact the accuracy of the paint to
the point where it is an issue.

> Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.

I will grant you this to a degree, but only insofar as inconsistent paint
within a batch will modify the characteristics of the shot to shot air
needs. If you get paint that is consistent, you will consistently see the
same basic shot from your gun, regardless of other factors. If your gun
fires X amount of air, it will impact the paint in such a way to achieve Y
fps. If you fire one ball that is oversized, you're going to need more air
X to reach Y fps, followed by a shot that is undersized, all of a sudden
your speed shoots up a few fps, resulting in a longer shot.

Remember, the key to accuracy is NOT in the matching of the paint to the
barrel, it lies in making sure that nothing changes from shot to shot. Make
sure you use the same amount of air, that the paint is the same size and
weight, that the barrel is always clear of obstructions, that the gun fires
at the same velocity. The key to accuracy in paintball is all about
consistency, NOT about matching paint to barrels.

You want your gun more accurate? Get a regulator and an aftermarket barrel
and some superior quality (read consistently sized, shaped and weighted)
paint. Get your velocity with a variation as low as possible, make sure
your barrel is clean, and your paint is consistent.

My gun fires with +/- 2fps variation, my paint is consistent, and my barrel
is clean. That's how I can peg someone first shot every time, NOT because
my paint is matched to my barrel. If I actually *MISS* somehow, count your
lucky stars that *I* did something stupid or was rushed, because I guarantee
you it's not my gear.

> What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?

Masterfully Controlled Shooting Defender.

(Microsoft Certified Solution Developer)

--
Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
It's not a god complex when you're always right

when your playing paintball not tennis you get up into the action and not
hide with your flatline 200 yds back ! any barrel works good at 30-40 yds.
but hide and try to long ball and you will get bunkered in the long run. get
balls !
"Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lpqdnVkv8e4J9IHfRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> "John J." <detectorist@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:JNRSd.99497$qB6.21277@tornado.tampabay.rr.com ...
> > Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its
> magic.
> > An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a spin.
>
> Yes, the mechanism of intentional barrel side impact is the exact method
by
> which the flatline works. Of course, you neglect to mention that the
sides
> of the flatline are specifically surfaced in such a way to induce friction
> as the ball passes, thus inducing the spin. As has been said many times
> before, polish out the inside of a flatline, and it ceases to work. IN
> OTHER WORDS, if you fired a paintball down a polished barrel, without any
> surface friction to induce spin, odds are good it's not going to spin no
> matter how many times it impacts the side of the barrel along it's path
out
> the other end, as is evidenced by a polished flatline barrel, with that
> wicked ass curve in the thing.
>
> Yes, friction can cause spin, and does in the flatline, but most
aftermarket
> barrels are pretty meticulously polished to remove such friction, and as
> such, friction does not impact the paintball tremendously, regardless of
how
> much it hits the sides of the barrel.
>
> Therefore, the only remaining accuracy issue with regard to touching the
> sides of the barrel is the amount of play from the last time the ball hits
a
> side and when it leaves the barrel itself. At 75 feet, assuming a WILDLY
> out of size paintball where you have 0.01" of wiggle room, this produces a
> shot that can potentially be off course by less than an inch, and that
> assumes the maximum variation of paintball direction, NOT the average
> variation, which would result in a far smaller deviation from target.
Less
> than one inch at 75 feet. That means that, barring ANY OTHER FACTOR, a
gun
> shooting perfectly round and nondimpled fresh paint, in perfect
> environmental conditions, and at precise speeds, should expect a bench
> variation of less than ONE INCH at 75 feet, based simply on marker
physics.
> Of course, this assumes a level of "perfection" we rarely see, but still,
we
> see that the barrel itself rarely can impact the accuracy of the paint to
> the point where it is an issue.
>
> > Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.
>
> I will grant you this to a degree, but only insofar as inconsistent paint
> within a batch will modify the characteristics of the shot to shot air
> needs. If you get paint that is consistent, you will consistently see the
> same basic shot from your gun, regardless of other factors. If your gun
> fires X amount of air, it will impact the paint in such a way to achieve Y
> fps. If you fire one ball that is oversized, you're going to need more
air
> X to reach Y fps, followed by a shot that is undersized, all of a sudden
> your speed shoots up a few fps, resulting in a longer shot.
>
> Remember, the key to accuracy is NOT in the matching of the paint to the
> barrel, it lies in making sure that nothing changes from shot to shot.
Make
> sure you use the same amount of air, that the paint is the same size and
> weight, that the barrel is always clear of obstructions, that the gun
fires
> at the same velocity. The key to accuracy in paintball is all about
> consistency, NOT about matching paint to barrels.
>
> You want your gun more accurate? Get a regulator and an aftermarket
barrel
> and some superior quality (read consistently sized, shaped and weighted)
> paint. Get your velocity with a variation as low as possible, make sure
> your barrel is clean, and your paint is consistent.
>
> My gun fires with +/- 2fps variation, my paint is consistent, and my
barrel
> is clean. That's how I can peg someone first shot every time, NOT because
> my paint is matched to my barrel. If I actually *MISS* somehow, count
your
> lucky stars that *I* did something stupid or was rushed, because I
guarantee
> you it's not my gear.
>
> > What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?
>
> Masterfully Controlled Shooting Defender.
>
> (Microsoft Certified Solution Developer)
>
> --
> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>
>
>

Some good points, however...

If a ball is too large for a particulat barrel then it would have to be
squeezed through it with a resulting deformity, even a temporary one
(deformity) would tend to decrease accuracy, in my opinion.

If a paint to barrel match wasn't important then all paint would would have
the same performance out of all barrels. In my experience, better quality
paint like the Marbilizers shot well with most barrels.

And sine we're using some abbreviations around here...

John W. Jomp
CCNA, MCSE, etc.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 6:30 AM
Subject: Re: Good paint choice - JJ Ceramic?


> "John J." <detectorist@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:JNRSd.99497$qB6.21277@tornado.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its
> magic.
>> An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a spin.
>
> Yes, the mechanism of intentional barrel side impact is the exact method
> by
> which the flatline works. Of course, you neglect to mention that the
> sides
> of the flatline are specifically surfaced in such a way to induce friction
> as the ball passes, thus inducing the spin. As has been said many times
> before, polish out the inside of a flatline, and it ceases to work. IN
> OTHER WORDS, if you fired a paintball down a polished barrel, without any
> surface friction to induce spin, odds are good it's not going to spin no
> matter how many times it impacts the side of the barrel along it's path
> out
> the other end, as is evidenced by a polished flatline barrel, with that
> wicked ass curve in the thing.
>
> Yes, friction can cause spin, and does in the flatline, but most
> aftermarket
> barrels are pretty meticulously polished to remove such friction, and as
> such, friction does not impact the paintball tremendously, regardless of
> how
> much it hits the sides of the barrel.
>
> Therefore, the only remaining accuracy issue with regard to touching the
> sides of the barrel is the amount of play from the last time the ball hits
> a
> side and when it leaves the barrel itself. At 75 feet, assuming a WILDLY
> out of size paintball where you have 0.01" of wiggle room, this produces a
> shot that can potentially be off course by less than an inch, and that
> assumes the maximum variation of paintball direction, NOT the average
> variation, which would result in a far smaller deviation from target.
> Less
> than one inch at 75 feet. That means that, barring ANY OTHER FACTOR, a
> gun
> shooting perfectly round and nondimpled fresh paint, in perfect
> environmental conditions, and at precise speeds, should expect a bench
> variation of less than ONE INCH at 75 feet, based simply on marker
> physics.
> Of course, this assumes a level of "perfection" we rarely see, but still,
> we
> see that the barrel itself rarely can impact the accuracy of the paint to
> the point where it is an issue.
>
>> Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.
>
> I will grant you this to a degree, but only insofar as inconsistent paint
> within a batch will modify the characteristics of the shot to shot air
> needs. If you get paint that is consistent, you will consistently see the
> same basic shot from your gun, regardless of other factors. If your gun
> fires X amount of air, it will impact the paint in such a way to achieve Y
> fps. If you fire one ball that is oversized, you're going to need more
> air
> X to reach Y fps, followed by a shot that is undersized, all of a sudden
> your speed shoots up a few fps, resulting in a longer shot.
>
> Remember, the key to accuracy is NOT in the matching of the paint to the
> barrel, it lies in making sure that nothing changes from shot to shot.
> Make
> sure you use the same amount of air, that the paint is the same size and
> weight, that the barrel is always clear of obstructions, that the gun
> fires
> at the same velocity. The key to accuracy in paintball is all about
> consistency, NOT about matching paint to barrels.
>
> You want your gun more accurate? Get a regulator and an aftermarket
> barrel
> and some superior quality (read consistently sized, shaped and weighted)
> paint. Get your velocity with a variation as low as possible, make sure
> your barrel is clean, and your paint is consistent.
>
> My gun fires with +/- 2fps variation, my paint is consistent, and my
> barrel
> is clean. That's how I can peg someone first shot every time, NOT because
> my paint is matched to my barrel. If I actually *MISS* somehow, count
> your
> lucky stars that *I* did something stupid or was rushed, because I
> guarantee
> you it's not my gear.
>
>> What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?
>
> Masterfully Controlled Shooting Defender.
>
> (Microsoft Certified Solution Developer)
>
> --
> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>
>
>
"Jeff Goslin" <autockr@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lpqdnVkv8e4J9IHfRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> "John J." <detectorist@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:JNRSd.99497$qB6.21277@tornado.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> Impacting one side of the barrel is EXACTLY how the Flatline does its
> magic.
>> An inconsistent coeficient of friction on any side can produce a spin.
>
> Yes, the mechanism of intentional barrel side impact is the exact method
> by
> which the flatline works. Of course, you neglect to mention that the
> sides
> of the flatline are specifically surfaced in such a way to induce friction
> as the ball passes, thus inducing the spin. As has been said many times
> before, polish out the inside of a flatline, and it ceases to work. IN
> OTHER WORDS, if you fired a paintball down a polished barrel, without any
> surface friction to induce spin, odds are good it's not going to spin no
> matter how many times it impacts the side of the barrel along it's path
> out
> the other end, as is evidenced by a polished flatline barrel, with that
> wicked ass curve in the thing.
>
> Yes, friction can cause spin, and does in the flatline, but most
> aftermarket
> barrels are pretty meticulously polished to remove such friction, and as
> such, friction does not impact the paintball tremendously, regardless of
> how
> much it hits the sides of the barrel.
>
> Therefore, the only remaining accuracy issue with regard to touching the
> sides of the barrel is the amount of play from the last time the ball hits
> a
> side and when it leaves the barrel itself. At 75 feet, assuming a WILDLY
> out of size paintball where you have 0.01" of wiggle room, this produces a
> shot that can potentially be off course by less than an inch, and that
> assumes the maximum variation of paintball direction, NOT the average
> variation, which would result in a far smaller deviation from target.
> Less
> than one inch at 75 feet. That means that, barring ANY OTHER FACTOR, a
> gun
> shooting perfectly round and nondimpled fresh paint, in perfect
> environmental conditions, and at precise speeds, should expect a bench
> variation of less than ONE INCH at 75 feet, based simply on marker
> physics.
> Of course, this assumes a level of "perfection" we rarely see, but still,
> we
> see that the barrel itself rarely can impact the accuracy of the paint to
> the point where it is an issue.
>
>> Inconsistent ball sizes also produce inconsistent accuracy.
>
> I will grant you this to a degree, but only insofar as inconsistent paint
> within a batch will modify the characteristics of the shot to shot air
> needs. If you get paint that is consistent, you will consistently see the
> same basic shot from your gun, regardless of other factors. If your gun
> fires X amount of air, it will impact the paint in such a way to achieve Y
> fps. If you fire one ball that is oversized, you're going to need more
> air
> X to reach Y fps, followed by a shot that is undersized, all of a sudden
> your speed shoots up a few fps, resulting in a longer shot.
>
> Remember, the key to accuracy is NOT in the matching of the paint to the
> barrel, it lies in making sure that nothing changes from shot to shot.
> Make
> sure you use the same amount of air, that the paint is the same size and
> weight, that the barrel is always clear of obstructions, that the gun
> fires
> at the same velocity. The key to accuracy in paintball is all about
> consistency, NOT about matching paint to barrels.
>
> You want your gun more accurate? Get a regulator and an aftermarket
> barrel
> and some superior quality (read consistently sized, shaped and weighted)
> paint. Get your velocity with a variation as low as possible, make sure
> your barrel is clean, and your paint is consistent.
>
> My gun fires with +/- 2fps variation, my paint is consistent, and my
> barrel
> is clean. That's how I can peg someone first shot every time, NOT because
> my paint is matched to my barrel. If I actually *MISS* somehow, count
> your
> lucky stars that *I* did something stupid or was rushed, because I
> guarantee
> you it's not my gear.
>
>> What's an 'MCSD' ? Is it some type of paintball degree?
>
> Masterfully Controlled Shooting Defender.
>
> (Microsoft Certified Solution Developer)
>
> --
> Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info
> It's not a god complex when you're always right
>
>
>