ok, now go get a normal spring (or better yet a spring kit)

stiff spring=colder weather 280fps
soft spring=hot weather 280fps
-remove the venturi out of your bolt
-get anti-siphon or a remote
-get a e-marker trigger frame
-get an agitating hopper
-get regulator
-get hpa tank (nitro or air)

oh yeah, nothing you can do will improve accuracy or range. you can
improve consistency by getting a better air supply or going low
pressure, but a blowback is a blowback. unless you can figure out a way
to get an a-5 flatline onto your spyder it won't fire further, and
unless you convert to a closed bolt, it won't fire straighter.



MikeyC wrote:
> I have a spider victor 2 and want to upgrade it for better accuracy
> and range. I added a CP 14 inch to it, the range was increase but
> accuracy not so much. I am running CO2. All parts are stock except
the
> cut spring for power, which was cut for indoor use but now I am
> strictly woodsball.
>
> Thanks MikeyC

Mostly what others said, but I had a Spyder Victor 2 before my DM4. Would
suggest:

+ J&J ceramic barrel
+ spring kit
+ Buzzy's Slick Honey (lube)
+ 12v Revvy
+ HPA / Air / Nitro (68/4500 or 45/4500)

The last two can be used on your next marker as well (although you probably
should also go to an Empire Reloader B at that time).

<mad8vskillz@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1106065918.428553.190260@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> oh yeah, nothing you can do will improve accuracy or range. you can
> improve consistency by getting a better air supply or going low
> pressure, but a blowback is a blowback. unless you can figure out a way
> to get an a-5 flatline onto your spyder it won't fire further, and
> unless you convert to a closed bolt, it won't fire straighter.

Blahblahblah...
Since I took the role of the Local Spyder Guy a time ago, I'll give you a
rundown.

Mad... Shuddup. Just... Shuddup.
First thing's first. NO, and I repeat, NO gun is inherently more accurate
than any other, closed bolt or open. Closed bolts tend to be more consistant
in velocity, and tend to 'kick' less, but they're no less accurate on a
shot-to-shot basis. So don't spout that crap here, or you'll get the rest of
the group on you, and I'm likely the more gentle of them.

Second, the range: barring a Flatline barrel, a paintball that weighs X,
leaving the barrel at 290 feet a second (thereabouts) will go distance Y. NO
barrel, besides the Tippman's Flatline, will change that with rifling,
porting, straight-rifling, or hundreds of fancy inserts. Nothing. A CP was
probably a pretty good choice, now just practice with it. If that fails, go
J&J Ceramic.

On a related note, don't listen to the hype about ANYTHING. Porting doesn't
help accuracy (any that you can tell, at LEAST), spiral porting doesn't spin
the ball, standard rifling won't spin the ball in the best of times, and
will throw your accuracy out the window in the worst, and straight-rifling
has a hard time helping in any way under the best conditions, and you're SOL
if there's *anything* in your barrel. Also, while I've found that
paint-to-bore size does matter to some extent, it's not nearly what you hear
about. It's great if your paint fits perfectly, but not a life-or-death
thing. Even so, two or three barrels (big and small-bore) or a decent kit
with two or three backs wouldn't *hurt*.

The best you can do from there is consistancy. Get yourself a spring kit.
They're cheap. Tinker with the springs until it's working great. If you want
even better than that, a regulator. A Palmer Stabilizier's the best bet for
Co2, but you can get a WGP Ergo cheap off eBay.

MAd did have a couple points, though. An HPA tank will be more consistant
than a Co2 tank, and a decent one won't need a reg after it. Regulators are
good. And, yes, pulling the venturi out of your stock bolt (or getting a
Spudknukl off eBay. They're pretty cheap) will help a bit. Not accuracy, but
they'll let the air flow a bit more consistantly, and help out a little in
the efficiency department. The Anti-siphon and remote are good, but make
sure anyone that installs an anti-siphon for you is a decent airsmith. The
siphon tube *must* point up inside the tank when it's on your gun, or it
just sucks liquid up. And the valve MUST be torqued down properly and
LocTited right. A remote will give liquid more time to expand before it hits
your marker.

As for the rest, an agitated hopper will help you shoot faster, and so will
an E-trigger.

Matt wrote:
> <mad8vskillz@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1106065918.428553.190260@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > oh yeah, nothing you can do will improve accuracy or range. you can
> > improve consistency by getting a better air supply or going low
> > pressure, but a blowback is a blowback. unless you can figure out a
way
> > to get an a-5 flatline onto your spyder it won't fire further, and
> > unless you convert to a closed bolt, it won't fire straighter.
>
> Blahblahblah...
> Since I took the role of the Local Spyder Guy a time ago, I'll give
you a
> rundown.
>
> Mad... Shuddup. Just... Shuddup.
> First thing's first. NO, and I repeat, NO gun is inherently more
accurate
> than any other, closed bolt or open. Closed bolts tend to be more
consistant
> in velocity, and tend to 'kick' less, but they're no less accurate on
a
> shot-to-shot basis. So don't spout that crap here, or you'll get the
rest of
> the group on you, and I'm likely the more gentle of them.
>
> Second, the range: barring a Flatline barrel, a paintball that weighs
X,
> leaving the barrel at 290 feet a second (thereabouts) will go
distance Y. NO
> barrel, besides the Tippman's Flatline, will change that with
rifling,
> porting, straight-rifling, or hundreds of fancy inserts. Nothing. A
CP was
> probably a pretty good choice, now just practice with it. If that
fails, go
> J&J Ceramic.
>
> On a related note, don't listen to the hype about ANYTHING. Porting
doesn't
> help accuracy (any that you can tell, at LEAST), spiral porting
doesn't spin
> the ball, standard rifling won't spin the ball in the best of times,
and
> will throw your accuracy out the window in the worst, and
straight-rifling
> has a hard time helping in any way under the best conditions, and
you're SOL
> if there's *anything* in your barrel. Also, while I've found that
> paint-to-bore size does matter to some extent, it's not nearly what
you hear
> about. It's great if your paint fits perfectly, but not a
life-or-death
> thing. Even so, two or three barrels (big and small-bore) or a decent
kit
> with two or three backs wouldn't *hurt*.
>
> The best you can do from there is consistancy. Get yourself a spring
kit.
> They're cheap. Tinker with the springs until it's working great. If
you want
> even better than that, a regulator. A Palmer Stabilizier's the best
bet for
> Co2, but you can get a WGP Ergo cheap off eBay.
>
> MAd did have a couple points, though. An HPA tank will be more
consistant
> than a Co2 tank, and a decent one won't need a reg after it.
Regulators are
> good. And, yes, pulling the venturi out of your stock bolt (or
getting a
> Spudknukl off eBay. They're pretty cheap) will help a bit. Not
accuracy, but
> they'll let the air flow a bit more consistantly, and help out a
little in
> the efficiency department. The Anti-siphon and remote are good, but
make
> sure anyone that installs an anti-siphon for you is a decent
airsmith. The
> siphon tube *must* point up inside the tank when it's on your gun, or
it
> just sucks liquid up. And the valve MUST be torqued down properly and
> LocTited right. A remote will give liquid more time to expand before
it hits
> your marker.
>
> As for the rest, an agitated hopper will help you shoot faster, and
so will
> an E-trigger.


well, i'm not sure why i got flamed for barrels... (i said that nothing
will make you shoot further unless it's the tippman flatline)

and closed bolt is slightly more accurate as the entire purpose of it
is to reduce spin ut on the ball. (the success of that is questionable,
but as far as i can tell it is the case).
it's not like i'm advertising 21 inch "air-waster" barrels here...

The CP barrel is definately a good choice, and as far as what Matt
mentioned making your own barrel kit is probably a good idea. I
personally have 3 CP barrels for my timmy (.693, .689, and .685) and
I couldn't be happier. Practicing your shooting is also very good
advise.

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet about comnistency is
polishing your internals. Take out ouy striker, bolt, and valve pin
and use some good polishing compound, like "Mother's" and a buffing
wheel and go at it. It may not seem like you're doing much to help,
but it does more good than you think. You may also want to polish the
inside of the body as well. Anything you can do to make the surfaces
smoother leads to more consistency.

If you feel like upgrading even more, you can consider getting an
aftermaret valve as well. As I'm currently bored and building my own
low pressure spyder, I've come across a dark horizon valve on ebay.
It seems like it will work decent, but It hasn't come in yet so I'll
have to let you know about it. I know i wasn't impressed by the
madman rocket valve. For the money, the magnaport valve actually
isn't that bad.

Along with changing your main spring to help your velocity, try
buying a shockteck shim kit. These shims replace the plastic spring
guide and help for fine tuning your marker.

If you're looking to get a regulator, go all the way and get a
Palmer's Stabilizer. This reg will work with CO2, and seems to do a
better job of keeping liquid out of the gun than any expansion
chamber will. If you get this reg, you need not worry about an anti-
siphon tank or running a remote line. The only thing is that on the
Victor II you need to get a new vertical adapter that you can screw a
regulator into. They're about $20 at a pro shop, and you may be able
to find them on ebay as well.

The other thing I forgot to mention about accuracy is your choice of
paint. If you get higher quality paint you should be able to see some
better accuracy. I advise getting your paint from a pro shop, and not
wal-mart oranything like that. You never know how long the paint has
been sitting in that store or in a warehouse.

Hope some of this has helped.

> well, i'm not sure why i got flamed for barrels... (i said that nothing
> will make you shoot further unless it's the tippman flatline)
>
> and closed bolt is slightly more accurate as the entire purpose of it
> is to reduce spin ut on the ball. (the success of that is questionable,
> but as far as i can tell it is the case).
> it's not like i'm advertising 21 inch "air-waster" barrels here...

Not really flaming ya, just quelling the 'closed-vs-open-bolt'
discussion before it begins. The only difference they make in actual
accuracy is that the closed bolt doesn't kick as much, which makes it more
consistant when you're shooting fast. Closed bolts do tend to be made
better, so they're more consistant, and tend to come with better stock
barrels, which is where I think the accuracy myth stemmed from.

And I do thank you for not warping the new guy's fragile little mind
with "get a 21inch cmi barel there strait rifld which means the ball dosnt
spin its more acurrrate i snip ppl from acros teh feild thy dnt even here me
i luv it" like I've heard from a lot of newbies and 12-year olds.

Besides, you should thank me for knocking the 'closed-bolt' discussion
down before Phelps and Jeff got at it. :P

And I do thank you for not warping the new guy's fragile little mind
with "get a 21inch cmi barel there strait rifld which means the ball
dosnt
spin its more acurrrate i snip ppl from acros teh feild thy dnt even
here me
i luv it" like I've heard from a lot of newbies and 12-year olds.


My mind is already warped and fragile.

Where can I find a link that has the J&J ceramic barrels

is this similar to the bolt you are talking about
HITTMANN VENTURI BOLTS from Allen Paintball
( http://www.bargainpaintball.com/gun.html ) 3rd table down 2nd one
with an image

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 00:13:14 -0500, "Matt" <MathU41@aol.com> wrote:

>> well, i'm not sure why i got flamed for barrels... (i said that nothing
>> will make you shoot further unless it's the tippman flatline)
>>
>> and closed bolt is slightly more accurate as the entire purpose of it
>> is to reduce spin ut on the ball. (the success of that is questionable,
>> but as far as i can tell it is the case).
>> it's not like i'm advertising 21 inch "air-waster" barrels here...
>
> Not really flaming ya, just quelling the 'closed-vs-open-bolt'
>discussion before it begins. The only difference they make in actual
>accuracy is that the closed bolt doesn't kick as much, which makes it more
>consistant when you're shooting fast. Closed bolts do tend to be made
>better, so they're more consistant, and tend to come with better stock
>barrels, which is where I think the accuracy myth stemmed from.
>
> And I do thank you for not warping the new guy's fragile little mind
>with "get a 21inch cmi barel there strait rifld which means the ball dosnt
>spin its more acurrrate i snip ppl from acros teh feild thy dnt even here me
>i luv it" like I've heard from a lot of newbies and 12-year olds.
>
> Besides, you should thank me for knocking the 'closed-bolt' discussion
>down before Phelps and Jeff got at it. :P
>

> My mind is already warped and fragile.

Thank you for sharing. I'll make a point not to be completely disturbing
around you. :P

> Where can I find a link that has the J&J ceramic barrels

A lot of online stores sell them. As far as I know, you can't buy them
straight from J&J. EBay has some pretty cheap sometimes. Still, I haven't
heard much bad about Custom Products barrels. Markers with vertical and
power feeds tend to be a little hard to aim, and Spyders shake a bit when
you fire, you might just need some practice.

> is this similar to the bolt you are talking about
> HITTMANN VENTURI BOLTS from Allen Paintball
> ( http://www.bargainpaintball.com/gun.html ) 3rd table down 2nd one
> with an image

No, not really. A 'closed-bolt' marker, if that's what you meant, is one
that's bolt is in the closed position until you pull the trigger.
Autocockers, Excaliburs, the Omen by Evil, and I think old-school Shockers.
Open-bolt markers shove the bolt forward when they fire, then kick back.

If you meant what WE meant when we said 'remove the venturi', we meant the
stock bolt. Look down the front of it, and it's got a star-shaped 'venturi'
in it, which is just screwed in. Get some heat behind it to loosen the
Loctite then twist it out with really thin pliers or a bolt remover.