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[1] Posted by Jeff Goslin 01-02-2005, 04:16 PM |
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In general, the upgrade path for most any marker goes like this:
THERMAL LENS FOR MASK Accuracy Feeding Velocity Stability Rate of Fire First things first, if they don't have thermal mask systems, that's the most obvious thing to upgrade, before anything else. If your mask is fogging, it doesn't matter what you do to your marker, you're still going to be at a disadvantage when playing. Thermal lens systems prevent the mask from fogging up, and allow the player to have a MUCH better time playing. There are many choices, and I prefer the JT Spectra for that. Accuracy: most guns have a stock barrel that is pretty crappy. The next replacement is an easy one, the barrel. When it comes to barrels, expensive is not necessarily better. What is important is to get one middle of the road barrel that will work for most situations. A medium bore barrel is the right choice in this instance, as it will fit most brands of paint fairly well, enough so that a person's accuracy will not suffer because of paint size. My personal preference is the J&J Ceramic. It's inexpensive, lightweight, durable and accurate, and can be had for about $40 online. When upgrading barrels, longer is not necessarily better. Anything past 8" is technically just wasted space, but many people like to use a longer barrel to get better aim down the length of the gun. My preferred length for a barrel on a Tippmann is 12", but you can get them up to 16"(a length I personally consider to be ridiculously long). Feeding: if you gun doesn't feed right, it doesn't matter how fast you pull the trigger, because you won't guarantee that a ball will fly when you do. Next upgrade is generally a way to make the gun feed better, and that means an agitated hopper of some kind. There are plenty of choices out there, and the price ranges from about $50 to $150. They all work, some better than others, but some are overkill for a Tippmann. My personal choice is a Revolution hopper, the one that started it all. They are quite inexpensive, but don't have the rate of fire that some others do. If your kids are planning on getting deeply into the sport, might as well drop the clams up front to get them something a little nicer, like a Halo or something. Velocity Stability: Velocity stability does so much to improve a gun, it's not even funny. You guaranatee that, from shot to shot, your velocity will not fluctuate that much, meaning that you can much more accurately predict where your shots are going to go. You can also ensure that you never exceed safety limits while allowing you to play closer to the edge. The simplest way to accomplish this goal is through a high pressure air(HPA) tank. Assuming you can get it filled at your local field, HPA will be the most constant air source you can find. The cheaper air tanks can be had for about $80, but those ones rarely hold more than 500 shots. A HPA tank is something that can be taken from gun to gun, so it may be something to splurge on. I would recommend a 68ci/4500 psi tank, and if you can afford it, get a carbon fiber wrapped tank(they are lighter, and last longer) as opposed to a steel/aluminum tank. There are other velocity stability choices, including the regulator(Palmer's Stabilizer is the key one there), Expansion Chambers, Remotes and Anti Siphon CO2 tanks. However, most of that(except the regulator), becomes redundant if you buy and can fill a HPA tank. Rate of Fire: This is the RT upgrade you describe below. This will increase how fast the gun fires from paintball to paintball. There are many choices, unfortunately, not too many for the Tippmann. If you want to increase your rate of fire, in general, you can either get an electronic grip frame, which will electronically fire the gun whenever you pull the trigger, OR, get the RT upgrade, which will assist you in firing faster by putting the trigger back into firing position faster. Personally, I think it should be the last thing you upgrade, not the first, since if your gun is not feeding, doesn't have stable velocity and can't hit the broad side of a barn anyways, all firing fast does for you is break paint in your gun and make sure that paint that DOES leave your gun is never on target. Hope this has helped. -- Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info It's not a god complex when you're always right "RHallVA" <rhall50@erols.com> wrote in message news:4IedndAzH4KWgUXcRVn-hA@rcn.net... > My kids got these recently and are eager to upgrade from the basic models > they got. Both want to spend their hard-earned $ on adding the Response > Trigger System. I have a few questions if anyone has the time and info to > share. > > Is the Response Trigger System a worthy upgrade for the 98c? > > Will an upgrade hopper/feeder be necessary to make the new trigger system > fully operational? If so what would be the least expensive (but suitable and > reliable) hopper to upgrade to? > > Is the stock barrel on the 98c a good one or should that be considered for > upgrade? Are their better barrels that do not cost a lot of money, but are > still noticably better than the stock barrel? What kind of barrel should be > considered for the 98c? > Not sure the Flatline is really worth the $100+ to upgrade to that. What > would be a good choice for a barrel? > > Thanks very much! > > |
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[2] Posted by MonkeyBoy 01-04-2005, 12:05 AM |
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Jeff Goslin wrote: > In general, the upgrade path for most any marker goes like this: > THERMAL LENS FOR MASK > Accuracy > Feeding > Velocity Stability > Rate of Fire > > First things first, if they don't have thermal mask systems, that's the most > obvious thing to upgrade, before anything else. If your mask is fogging, it > doesn't matter what you do to your marker, you're still going to be at a > disadvantage when playing. Thermal lens systems prevent the mask from > fogging up, and allow the player to have a MUCH better time playing. There > are many choices, and I prefer the JT Spectra for that. > > Accuracy: most guns have a stock barrel that is pretty crappy. The next > replacement is an easy one, the barrel. When it comes to barrels, expensive > is not necessarily better. What is important is to get one middle of the > road barrel that will work for most situations. A medium bore barrel is the > right choice in this instance, as it will fit most brands of paint fairly > well, enough so that a person's accuracy will not suffer because of paint > size. My personal preference is the J&J Ceramic. It's inexpensive, > lightweight, durable and accurate, and can be had for about $40 online. > When upgrading barrels, longer is not necessarily better. Anything past 8" > is technically just wasted space, but many people like to use a longer > barrel to get better aim down the length of the gun. My preferred length > for a barrel on a Tippmann is 12", but you can get them up to 16"(a length I > personally consider to be ridiculously long). > > Feeding: if you gun doesn't feed right, it doesn't matter how fast you pull > the trigger, because you won't guarantee that a ball will fly when you do. > Next upgrade is generally a way to make the gun feed better, and that means > an agitated hopper of some kind. There are plenty of choices out there, and > the price ranges from about $50 to $150. They all work, some better than > others, but some are overkill for a Tippmann. My personal choice is a > Revolution hopper, the one that started it all. They are quite inexpensive, > but don't have the rate of fire that some others do. If your kids are > planning on getting deeply into the sport, might as well drop the clams up > front to get them something a little nicer, like a Halo or something. > > Velocity Stability: Velocity stability does so much to improve a gun, it's > not even funny. You guaranatee that, from shot to shot, your velocity will > not fluctuate that much, meaning that you can much more accurately predict > where your shots are going to go. You can also ensure that you never exceed > safety limits while allowing you to play closer to the edge. The simplest > way to accomplish this goal is through a high pressure air(HPA) tank. > Assuming you can get it filled at your local field, HPA will be the most > constant air source you can find. The cheaper air tanks can be had for > about $80, but those ones rarely hold more than 500 shots. A HPA tank is > something that can be taken from gun to gun, so it may be something to > splurge on. I would recommend a 68ci/4500 psi tank, and if you can afford > it, get a carbon fiber wrapped tank(they are lighter, and last longer) as > opposed to a steel/aluminum tank. There are other velocity stability > choices, including the regulator(Palmer's Stabilizer is the key one there), > Expansion Chambers, Remotes and Anti Siphon CO2 tanks. However, most of > that(except the regulator), becomes redundant if you buy and can fill a HPA > tank. > > Rate of Fire: This is the RT upgrade you describe below. This will > increase how fast the gun fires from paintball to paintball. There are many > choices, unfortunately, not too many for the Tippmann. If you want to > increase your rate of fire, in general, you can either get an electronic > grip frame, which will electronically fire the gun whenever you pull the > trigger, OR, get the RT upgrade, which will assist you in firing faster by > putting the trigger back into firing position faster. Personally, I think > it should be the last thing you upgrade, not the first, since if your gun is > not feeding, doesn't have stable velocity and can't hit the broad side of a > barn anyways, all firing fast does for you is break paint in your gun and > make sure that paint that DOES leave your gun is never on target. > > Hope this has helped. > > -- > Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info > It's not a god complex when you're always right > > > "RHallVA" <rhall50@erols.com> wrote in message > news:4IedndAzH4KWgUXcRVn-hA@rcn.net... > > My kids got these recently and are eager to upgrade from the basic models > > they got. Both want to spend their hard-earned $ on adding the Response > > Trigger System. I have a few questions if anyone has the time and info to > > share. > > > > Is the Response Trigger System a worthy upgrade for the 98c? > > > > Will an upgrade hopper/feeder be necessary to make the new trigger system > > fully operational? If so what would be the least expensive (but suitable > and > > reliable) hopper to upgrade to? > > > > Is the stock barrel on the 98c a good one or should that be considered for > > upgrade? Are their better barrels that do not cost a lot of money, but > are > > still noticably better than the stock barrel? What kind of barrel should > be > > considered for the 98c? > > Not sure the Flatline is really worth the $100+ to upgrade to that. What > > would be a good choice for a barrel? > > > > Thanks very much! > > > > I think you're right. Personally, I'm getting a flatline barrel and a 20oz tank first. Next, probably a agitating hopper. Since I'm usally more of a stay-back and wait kind guy, I really don't worry about the ROF much yet. My velocity is cool, but lately my gun will like shoot kinda crappy for a second and make me recock it, then repeat the process. When I get back outta the woods to check the darn thing, it works perfectly. And latley it shoots less far than normal too. Would that have something to do with velocit? Or maybe my tank is getting low. |
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[3] Posted by Jeff Goslin 01-04-2005, 04:02 AM |
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"MonkeyBoy" <iamsirbobsalot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1104811526.032602.166630@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com... > ROF much yet. My velocity is cool, but lately my gun will like shoot > kinda crappy for a second and make me recock it, then repeat the > process. When I get back outta the woods to check the darn thing, it > works perfectly. You are experiencing classic symptoms of playing when it's too cold to use CO2. When it gets too cold, the CO2 doesn't have enough time to expand to a gas(which is what the gun needs). Once you return to your car or whatever, the tank has probably been under your arm for a while and hasn't been fired in a while, allowing the tank to warm up a bit, allowing the liquid in the tank to (partially) convert to gas, allowing the gun to once again work correctly. If you want to solve this problem for good, either don't play when it's cold with CO2, or switch to HPA. And latley it shoots less far than normal too. Would > that have something to do with velocit? Or maybe my tank is getting > low. Two things, and I hope you don't take offense. First, if you gun is shooting less far, then I'd say it's a pretty darn good bet that it has SOMETHING to do with how fast the paintballs are being shot from the gun, call me wacky. Plus which, if you haven't filled your CO2 tank, the symptoms you describe above would be similar, except that your gun would NEVER work properly. Get your tank filled and try your gun again when it's cold. -- Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info It's not a god complex when you're always right |
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[4] Posted by MonkeyBoy 01-04-2005, 12:17 PM |
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Well, I get my tank filled every time I play and I shoot less than 200
rounds the first game on a 9oz tank and then it acts up. It was a bit warmer last time I played so it didnt happen as often. I'm getting a 20oz C02 tank like today or soon. What are your recommendations on HPA? |
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[5] Posted by Jeff Goslin 01-04-2005, 01:32 PM |
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I think you need to put down your Visa card, hope it doesn't burn a hole in
your pocket and actually do some research before making your next purchase. WHY are you getting a 20oz CO2 tank? If you think you're going to get a HPA tank, isn't that a waste of money? Side note, what do you think a 20oz tank will do for you? -- Jeff Goslin - MCSD - www.goslin.info It's not a god complex when you're always right "MonkeyBoy" <iamsirbobsalot@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1104855427.476976.199170@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com... > Well, I get my tank filled every time I play and I shoot less than 200 > rounds the first game on a 9oz tank and then it acts up. It was a bit > warmer last time I played so it didnt happen as often. I'm getting a > 20oz C02 tank like today or soon. What are your recommendations on HPA? > |
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