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[1] Posted by FireWalker877 10-31-2004, 09:25 PM |
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Hey guys,
I bought one of those mako storm trigger frames last year, and somewhere along the way I pulled the battery connector out of the 6-pin plug that connects to the board. Does anyone have any information on this connector??? I tried radio shack in vain. Brushfire wants to charge me like 30 bucks + parts. Bruce maybe you can help me on this one? Thanks, Charlie |
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[2] Posted by Bruce Chang 11-01-2004, 01:53 AM |
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"FireWalker877" <dragon451@ignmail.com> wrote in message news:7c0ffc9cf3e882a3f5da65e15b4c9a4f@localhost.ta lkaboutsportsnetwork.com... > Hey guys, > I bought one of those mako storm trigger frames last year, and > somewhere along the way I pulled the battery connector out of the 6-pin > plug that connects to the board. Does anyone have any information on this > connector??? I tried radio shack in vain. Brushfire wants to charge me > like 30 bucks + parts. Bruce maybe you can help me on this one? > > Thanks, > Charlie > Actually, I just replaced mine. The wire from the connector to the solenoid had broken. I tried to just solder the lead back onto the pin and it worked for maybe 15 minutes. I finally gave up and decided to just replace the connector because it wasn't snapping into place anyhow and I knew I had to re-crimp some connectors on it if I wanted something that would actually stay. I used some 2mm spaced molex generic connector and a matching molex header to fit it and crimped my own. The problem was I didn't want to do the research as to what crimp connector to find PLUS have to find an associated molex crimper. Instead, I tried to just solder the lead back onto the pin and it worked for maybe 15 minutes. I used some connectors we already had at work to do this. This is what I came up with: http://tinyurl.com/5r9s5 Now, I haven't played with it yet but I've fired it in the backyard and it seems to be doing just fine. The connector is held on there pretty well just by the friction of the pins to the connector. This is the website that gave me a starting place on where to find the stuff. http://airsoldier.com/~haveblue/tech/mako/ it says the socket is a Molex 53014-0610. I'm not sure it's right. I did a little looking on digikey and came up with a different manufacturer for that part number. Charlie, if you want, you can send me your frame and I'll replace the connector, just pay for shipping both ways and if you happen to have a piranha striker I could use one of them. If you don't want to deal with it, I would be interested in buying it from you. In any case, I need to take some measurements of the sear and hopefully I can have a new sear made for me as I've more or less messed up the one that I have now. Seeing yours will give me an idea what the original sear looks like. Let me know. -Bruce |
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[3] Posted by Brian 11-02-2004, 07:38 PM |
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Try taking it to a TV or electronics repair joint and see if they can fix it
up for you. They normally have plenty of experience with sauldering small parts and may even have an old bin of oddball connectors. You never know until you try. "Bruce Chang" <bechang@swspambegonebell.net> wrote in message news:Wbkhd.10611$bP2.5681@newssvr12.news.prodigy.c om... > > "FireWalker877" <dragon451@ignmail.com> wrote in message > news:7c0ffc9cf3e882a3f5da65e15b4c9a4f@localhost.ta lkaboutsportsnetwork.com.. .. > > Hey guys, > > I bought one of those mako storm trigger frames last year, and > > somewhere along the way I pulled the battery connector out of the 6-pin > > plug that connects to the board. Does anyone have any information on this > > connector??? I tried radio shack in vain. Brushfire wants to charge me > > like 30 bucks + parts. Bruce maybe you can help me on this one? > > > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > > Actually, I just replaced mine. The wire from the connector to the solenoid > had broken. I tried to just solder the lead back onto the pin and it worked > for maybe 15 minutes. I finally gave up and decided to just replace the > connector because it wasn't snapping into place anyhow and I knew I had to > re-crimp some connectors on it if I wanted something that would actually > stay. I used some 2mm spaced molex generic connector and a matching molex > header to fit it and crimped my own. The problem was I didn't want to do > the research as to what crimp connector to find PLUS have to find an > associated molex crimper. Instead, I tried to just solder the lead back > onto the pin and it worked for maybe 15 minutes. I used some connectors we > already had at work to do this. > > This is what I came up with: > > http://tinyurl.com/5r9s5 > > Now, I haven't played with it yet but I've fired it in the backyard and it > seems to be doing just fine. The connector is held on there pretty well > just by the friction of the pins to the connector. > > This is the website that gave me a starting place on where to find the > stuff. > > http://airsoldier.com/~haveblue/tech/mako/ > > it says the socket is a Molex 53014-0610. I'm not sure it's right. I did > a little looking on digikey and came up with a different manufacturer for > that part number. > > > Charlie, if you want, you can send me your frame and I'll replace the > connector, just pay for shipping both ways and if you happen to have a > piranha striker I could use one of them. If you don't want to deal with it, > I would be interested in buying it from you. In any case, I need to take > some measurements of the sear and hopefully I can have a new sear made for > me as I've more or less messed up the one that I have now. Seeing yours > will give me an idea what the original sear looks like. Let me know. > > -Bruce > > |
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[4] Posted by FireWalker877 11-10-2004, 06:14 PM |
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Hmmm. I think I'll try to get one of those connectors or perhaps I'll just
sauder the wires on and then fill the female connector with epoxy. If you need any pics of the frame or specific measurements though Bruce, just let me know. Thanks for your help, Charlie |
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[5] Posted by Bruce Chang 11-10-2004, 07:14 PM |
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"FireWalker877" <dragon451@ignmail.com> wrote in message news:41136f179b9061f7f8471043a65703f3@localhost.ta lkaboutsportsnetwork.com... > Hmmm. I think I'll try to get one of those connectors or perhaps I'll just > sauder the wires on and then fill the female connector with epoxy. If you > need any pics of the frame or specific measurements though Bruce, just let > me know. > Thanks for your help, > Charlie > Yeah, if you could take a close up picture of the sear removed from the frame, that would be great. With something to use as a scale (a ruler preferably). I think that would probably be the best. I think what I have now is okay.. I'm thinking the Kingman ESP trigger frames are of similar construction, so I might buy a sear from them and see if it fits. Just gotta find one that I can compare and see if it's even close. As to the connector, if you need the connector that I put on, I can put one together and mail it to you. I can crimp some wires for the battery, trigger and solenoid and you'll just have to solder those wires to the existing wires. You'll also have to remove the existing connectors on the circuit board and cut the ends off the wires. I've done a bunch of test firing and I haven't had any problems with the connector. The connector is tight enough that it's not slipping off and even if it wasn't tight, it doesn't have much place to vibrate loose. I just finished fixing everything I had wrong with my frame today. I finally milled out the holes for the buttons so they don't bind against the frame. I put a bunch of Mylar tape over the buttons so they don't ground out against the LCD and make it go haywire and I ground down the aluminum standoffs so the LCD sits low enough in the frame that the grip panels actually lay flat on the trigger frame. Woohoo! I'm set as long as the sear doesn't give me any problems. -Bruce |
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