I recently purchased an Icon E, although it has an electronic trigger with
adjustable pull I find it is still lacking, and virtually impossible to walk
it. It seems that the travel on the switch within the trigger handle has a
fairly long pull and can't be adjusted. Is the stock Icon E trigger the
same as the Spyder E trigger? It sure as hell looks it to me, but I don't
want to spend money to find out.

Secondly, is there an aftermarket trigger available for Spyders which can be
adjusted to enable me to walk it?

>I recently purchased an Icon E, although it has an electronic trigger with
>adjustable pull I find it is still lacking, and virtually impossible to walk
>it. It seems that the travel on the switch within the trigger handle has a
>fairly long pull and can't be adjusted. Is the stock Icon E trigger the
>same as the Spyder E trigger? It sure as hell looks it to me, but I don't
>want to spend money to find out.

I don't think it is, but I could be wrong.

>Secondly, is there an aftermarket trigger available for Spyders which can be
>adjusted to enable me to walk it?
>

There probably is, but good luck finding an aftermarket trigger for Spyders.
You could try the mod I did on my 32 Degrees frame, if you're comfortable with
a drill press. It's easy.

Take the trigger frame off. The triggers should have a block in front of the
hinge pin that just keeps the trigger from moving too much by stopping it
against the body.
Mark where the block ends, then take the trigger off. Make a dot just a
bitcloser to the hinge pin, so the trigger block would cover it if you put it
back in.
Go to Home Depot, Lowes, your choice of harware stores. Find the thinnest
allen-head set screw you can find, and get several different lengths. Get a
drill and tap set that matches the screw.
Strap the frame into the drill press, find that mark, and drill it. Tap it,
replace the trigger, and put the screw into the new hole. With the allen head
pointing down out away from the body for ease of adjustment.
From there, slap the frame back on, and adjust the screw inward until it won't
shoot anymore. Back it out until it just starts shooting reliably again. (for
example, my 32* frame would have a 'mouse click' semi-auto, but wouldn't fire
in reactive mode).
Put a drop of blue Loctite on it, screw it in, and adjust it quickly before the
loctite dries.

If there's an adjustment for the overtravel already and it's just the
microswitch, I know you can buy them, but you'd have to solder stuff. It's
relatively easy, but I'm a wiz with mechanical parts and machines, not
electronics.