Halo Modification

BigBoss · BigBoss

Saw this over on wgppress originally posted by JackoDaddy5. Thought it would be interesting to anyone out there that likes to tinker with their equipment.

Originally posted by JackoDaddy5:

-----------HALO SPEED MOD---------------

alright here we go...its long but read it all (before you start actually doing anything)

1) Take apart your halo with a phillip head screwdriver. be sure not to lose the lid spring or any of that suff. in fact take it apart in like a bathtub with the drain shut so you dont lose anything. and also make sure that you or someone with you knows how to put these things back together.

2) This mod consists of three things you must do and only 2 things on a reloader b.

3) MOD number one, only applies wth a regular halo, simply take out the board, and toward the top right, there will be a round silver piece with a slot for a flat head screwdriver. turn it 1/8 of a turn clockwise and reinsert the board.

4) MOD number two, take off the drive cone with a philip head. there should be a round spring, with the two ends of metal protruding, about 1/4 inch or so. take one end, bend it so they are now at 12 o clock and 6 oclock. and cut off most of the metal you just bent, but leave a 1/4 inch "finger" still protuding. screw the cone back on.

5) MOD number three is the trickiest, but is the mod has results in the overall speed of the modded halo. the other two only adjust eye sensitivity and the power of the drive spring. you must take out the big blue plastic assembly. unscrew the bottom piece of it below the drive cone and you will find several plastic gears, and an electric motor with a gold pulley and a large black o-ring wrapped around the motor, and the a white thing.

6) Now that you have done this, either, a) use the mod i used (works well but could be improved) or imagine something up in your head.

7) This is what i did... first get a roll of teflon tape. (available at hardware stores, its used for plumbing, etc.) then, remove the black o ring, and wrap the tape around the gold end of the electric motor. make sure that there is still a level slot for the o ring to fit on. also make sure the tape does not rub against anything on the sides or bottom. increase it in size as much as you can without it going haywire when you turn the halo on (which you should do occasionally to check if everything is working right) now, cut off all of the excess from the top or it will rub up against the cover and cause major friction. if you get it working well, put the black o ring back on the trick, screw on the lid, and reassemble the halo/reloader b.

Put in some paint and turn it on. It is a noticable increase in speed.

----------HALO DRIVE CONE MOD----------

1. In your broken cone, drill a hole through the cone where the broken tab is

2. Insert the screw into that hole you drilled and make sure its snug. you may have to use super glue or epoxy to secure it, just get a screw thats a bit bigger than the hole so that it threads it a bit into the plastic. on the other side of the cone make sure it goes all the way through to where the old tab was (it can be longer as long as it doesn't rub against the retainer ring)

3. Reassemble your halo/reloader b with the modded cone and you will be good to go

This one was thought of by my teamate, the speed one was done all by me

Reference URL: http://www.wgppress.com/viewtopic.php?t=47893

**NINJA BALLA** · **NINJA BALLA**

what exactly does this mod do?i know you said the knob in the board adjusts the eye sensitivity ,but what do the other mod's do and does this work for a victory board (just wanna know before i rip my halo apart cuz there a pain in the *** sometimes)

RiotPB · RiotPB

Way to much reading for me...looks informative though.

gorilla-qasma · gorilla-qasma

i hear ya about the long reading but its hella worth it.

Scapris · Scapris

I modded mine for two 9 volts and it seems to last a little longer than 6 AA's, Also lighter.

BigBoss · BigBoss

Quote:

Originally Posted by NINJA BALLA

what exactly does this mod do?i know you said the knob in the board adjusts the eye sensitivity ,but what do the other mod's do and does this work for a victory board (just wanna know before i rip my halo apart cuz there a pain in the *** sometimes)

The second mod involving the spring below the cone increases the power or strength that the spring pushes on the cone. The harder it pushes the faster the cone can spin.

The third mod involving the tape around the motor allows the motor to spin the cone faster, but I am not entirely sure how as I have not yet attempted to do that mod yet. I will post up pictures soon of what I believe JackoDaddy was trying to get across when he came up with that mod. I know its hard to imagine without pictures.

As far as the first mod will work with your victory board, I am unsure because I have a regular halo and i dont know if the victory board has the same layout. I will look into it for you.

Also the last mod for the cone is only to be done if one of the tabs has broken off and can be used instead of purchasing a whole new cone.

**NINJA BALLA** · **NINJA BALLA**

cool,thanks man

BigBoss · BigBoss

Ok Ninja Balla, I did some research and you should be able to do the first mod with your victory board.

This is a pic of the "screw" on an actual victory board. It is for the most part directly above the on button towards the top of the board. Remember not to turn it too much, only about 1/8 of a turn clockwise:

I am still working on pics of the last mod.

BigBoss · BigBoss

----------9v Battery Mod----------

Ok, so one of the big problems with halos is their weight, which even though only slightly can be attributed to the use of 6 AA's placed in a plastic case. This adds some extra weight that with this simple mod can be overcome.

To address this problem Odyssey themselves recommended using Enegizer Lithium AA's in the loader, as each one of them weighs if I remember correctly 3 grams less then normal ones.

Originally posted by Froth on PBN:

Everyone knows you get ALOT better battery life using Energizer Lithium AA's, and you get even better battery life + Lighter weight by using a Parallel set of 9v's. Well, Why not combine them for the best of both worlds? I've been experimenting with Ultralife Lithium 9v's in my Viking instead of normal alkalines and I've had amazing results - in short, calculations show that I will be able to get 40+ cases off of ONE of these batteries before I need a change. They're amazing.

For this Halo Mod you need:

-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-Three 9v Harness clips (available at Radioshack in packs I believe)
-Two Ultralife Lithium 9v's - Radioshack carries them @ $7-9 a pop.
-Heatshrink in 1/8" and 1/4"
-Electrical tape
-Packing foam or foam drawer stops

Here's how it goes down, First you need to create a Parallel wiring harness for the two 9v Batteries. this is not hard, follow this diagram for ease of harness making.

Make sure that both "black" wires from the two harnesses are soldered to the single red wire on the harness that will plug into your halo and vice versa for the "red "wires. This is vital as this configuration makes up for the change in polarity by hooking up both batterys.

Solder at the joints as pictured above. I am assuming most here know how to solder if not let me know and I'll be glad to help out. (I will prob post a thread on it sooner or later). You can use heat shrink tubing to ensure a tight seal and wrap it with electrical tape, but you can simply wrap it with the tape if your lazy

Now, hook the batteries to it and it should look like this. These batteries will last TEN YEARS in a standard smoke alarm and are rated to last FIVE times as long as a normal Alkaline.

Foam drawer stops with adhesive backing can be used to keep the batteries intact and non-rattling around. I dont know what exact ones these are but a trip to a hardware store should yield something similar.

You can also put one on the battery cover to hold the batterys even more secure, works great!

Installed, Snug but good

Battery cover snaps on like normal, holds everything really tight. No rattling batteries here

Final assembled pic:

This mod makes the Halo B noticeably lighter than with the 6 AA's and the life of the batteries should be AMAZING with two Lithium 9v's feeding the battery draining beast of electrical work inside the Halo

Note: I in no way guarantee that this mod will in any way increase the speed of your halo or last much longer that 6 AA's. This mod seems extremely worth it for several reasons:

1) Two 9V in parallel effectively reduces the amount of charge drained from each battery, essentially lowering the amount of current each one needs to put out. It's like a dampening effect that is generally good for your batteries. Also it'll ensure that the 9v lead stays at 9v and won't drop in response to a sudden current change.

2) It also effectively doubles your charge. Putting a bunch of 1.5v's in parallel will eventually get you to around 9v but the response of the system is typically slower.

3) It is noticebly lighter, getting rid of that extra weight cant be bad in itself.

4) By essentially eliminating AA's it simplifies what you need to keep in your gearbag. By having one common battery to power not only your marker but also your loader makes it easier at least to me to pack my bag.

5) This is a drop in mod. If it doesnt work you can always go back to what you know does, so for the cheap investment, it is worth it.

**** I strongly recommend not soldering the two extra harnesses directly to the halo because it cuts down on your alternatives and for reason number 5 above.

**NINJA BALLA** · **NINJA BALLA**

awesome man you kick *** ,thanks for the mods

BigBoss	[1] Posted by BigBoss 01-08-2005, 09:43 PM
Posts: n/a	Quote Saw this over on wgppress originally posted by JackoDaddy5. Thought it would be interesting to anyone out there that likes to tinker with their equipment. Originally posted by JackoDaddy5: -----------HALO SPEED MOD--------------- alright here we go...its long but read it all (before you start actually doing anything) 1) Take apart your halo with a phillip head screwdriver. be sure not to lose the lid spring or any of that suff. in fact take it apart in like a bathtub with the drain shut so you dont lose anything. and also make sure that you or someone with you knows how to put these things back together. 2) This mod consists of three things you must do and only 2 things on a reloader b. 3) MOD number one, only applies wth a regular halo, simply take out the board, and toward the top right, there will be a round silver piece with a slot for a flat head screwdriver. turn it 1/8 of a turn clockwise and reinsert the board. 4) MOD number two, take off the drive cone with a philip head. there should be a round spring, with the two ends of metal protruding, about 1/4 inch or so. take one end, bend it so they are now at 12 o clock and 6 oclock. and cut off most of the metal you just bent, but leave a 1/4 inch "finger" still protuding. screw the cone back on. 5) MOD number three is the trickiest, but is the mod has results in the overall speed of the modded halo. the other two only adjust eye sensitivity and the power of the drive spring. you must take out the big blue plastic assembly. unscrew the bottom piece of it below the drive cone and you will find several plastic gears, and an electric motor with a gold pulley and a large black o-ring wrapped around the motor, and the a white thing. 6) Now that you have done this, either, a) use the mod i used (works well but could be improved) or imagine something up in your head. 7) This is what i did... first get a roll of teflon tape. (available at hardware stores, its used for plumbing, etc.) then, remove the black o ring, and wrap the tape around the gold end of the electric motor. make sure that there is still a level slot for the o ring to fit on. also make sure the tape does not rub against anything on the sides or bottom. increase it in size as much as you can without it going haywire when you turn the halo on (which you should do occasionally to check if everything is working right) now, cut off all of the excess from the top or it will rub up against the cover and cause major friction. if you get it working well, put the black o ring back on the trick, screw on the lid, and reassemble the halo/reloader b. Put in some paint and turn it on. It is a noticable increase in speed. ----------HALO DRIVE CONE MOD---------- 1. In your broken cone, drill a hole through the cone where the broken tab is 2. Insert the screw into that hole you drilled and make sure its snug. you may have to use super glue or epoxy to secure it, just get a screw thats a bit bigger than the hole so that it threads it a bit into the plastic. on the other side of the cone make sure it goes all the way through to where the old tab was (it can be longer as long as it doesn't rub against the retainer ring) 3. Reassemble your halo/reloader b with the modded cone and you will be good to go This one was thought of by my teamate, the speed one was done all by me Reference URL: http://www.wgppress.com/viewtopic.php?t=47893 Last edited by BigBoss : 01-12-2005 at 03:41 PM.
Posts: n/a

RiotPB	[3] Posted by RiotPB 01-10-2005, 12:25 AM
Young Gun Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: So Cal Posts: 42	Quote Way to much reading for me...looks informative though.
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gorilla-qasma	[4] Posted by gorilla-qasma 01-10-2005, 08:38 AM
Young Gun Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 219	Quote i hear ya about the long reading but its hella worth it.
Young Gun Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 219	Profile \| Send PM \| Search \| Buddy

Scapris	[5] Posted by Scapris 01-11-2005, 07:40 PM
Young Gun Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Florida Posts: 15	Quote I modded mine for two 9 volts and it seems to last a little longer than 6 AA's, Also lighter.
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BigBoss	[8] Posted by BigBoss 01-12-2005, 03:15 PM
Posts: n/a	Quote Ok Ninja Balla, I did some research and you should be able to do the first mod with your victory board. This is a pic of the "screw" on an actual victory board. It is for the most part directly above the on button towards the top of the board. Remember not to turn it too much, only about 1/8 of a turn clockwise: I am still working on pics of the last mod.
Posts: n/a

BigBoss	[9] Posted by BigBoss 01-12-2005, 04:17 PM
Posts: n/a	Quote ----------9v Battery Mod---------- Ok, so one of the big problems with halos is their weight, which even though only slightly can be attributed to the use of 6 AA's placed in a plastic case. This adds some extra weight that with this simple mod can be overcome. To address this problem Odyssey themselves recommended using Enegizer Lithium AA's in the loader, as each one of them weighs if I remember correctly 3 grams less then normal ones. Originally posted by Froth on PBN: Everyone knows you get ALOT better battery life using Energizer Lithium AA's, and you get even better battery life + Lighter weight by using a Parallel set of 9v's. Well, Why not combine them for the best of both worlds? I've been experimenting with Ultralife Lithium 9v's in my Viking instead of normal alkalines and I've had amazing results - in short, calculations show that I will be able to get 40+ cases off of ONE of these batteries before I need a change. They're amazing. For this Halo Mod you need: -Soldering Iron -Solder -Three 9v Harness clips (available at Radioshack in packs I believe) -Two Ultralife Lithium 9v's - Radioshack carries them @ $7-9 a pop. -Heatshrink in 1/8" and 1/4" -Electrical tape -Packing foam or foam drawer stops Here's how it goes down, First you need to create a Parallel wiring harness for the two 9v Batteries. this is not hard, follow this diagram for ease of harness making. Make sure that both "black" wires from the two harnesses are soldered to the single red wire on the harness that will plug into your halo and vice versa for the "red "wires. This is vital as this configuration makes up for the change in polarity by hooking up both batterys. Solder at the joints as pictured above. I am assuming most here know how to solder if not let me know and I'll be glad to help out. (I will prob post a thread on it sooner or later). You can use heat shrink tubing to ensure a tight seal and wrap it with electrical tape, but you can simply wrap it with the tape if your lazy Now, hook the batteries to it and it should look like this. These batteries will last TEN YEARS in a standard smoke alarm and are rated to last FIVE times as long as a normal Alkaline. Foam drawer stops with adhesive backing can be used to keep the batteries intact and non-rattling around. I dont know what exact ones these are but a trip to a hardware store should yield something similar. You can also put one on the battery cover to hold the batterys even more secure, works great! Installed, Snug but good Battery cover snaps on like normal, holds everything really tight. No rattling batteries here Final assembled pic: This mod makes the Halo B noticeably lighter than with the 6 AA's and the life of the batteries should be AMAZING with two Lithium 9v's feeding the battery draining beast of electrical work inside the Halo Note: I in no way guarantee that this mod will in any way increase the speed of your halo or last much longer that 6 AA's. This mod seems extremely worth it for several reasons: 1) Two 9V in parallel effectively reduces the amount of charge drained from each battery, essentially lowering the amount of current each one needs to put out. It's like a dampening effect that is generally good for your batteries. Also it'll ensure that the 9v lead stays at 9v and won't drop in response to a sudden current change. 2) It also effectively doubles your charge. Putting a bunch of 1.5v's in parallel will eventually get you to around 9v but the response of the system is typically slower. 3) It is noticebly lighter, getting rid of that extra weight cant be bad in itself. 4) By essentially eliminating AA's it simplifies what you need to keep in your gearbag. By having one common battery to power not only your marker but also your loader makes it easier at least to me to pack my bag. 5) This is a drop in mod. If it doesnt work you can always go back to what you know does, so for the cheap investment, it is worth it. **** I strongly recommend not soldering the two extra harnesses directly to the halo because it cuts down on your alternatives and for reason number 5 above.
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