GUIDE FOR NEW EGO OWNERS
CARDINAL RULE OF EGOS!
**DO NOT SCREW YOUR 2REAR GRIPS SCREWS IN TOO FAR**
(solution grind screws down a bit or place two of the very small o-rings provided around them to stop them from penetrating the solenoid, this problem is only made worse with hybrid grips because they are built very thin)
SECOND CARDINAL RULE...
READ THE MANUAL, IT KNOWS ALL!
If you are using a force feed loader (halo b, reloader b, q-loader) then turn your ball and empty both to 1
Do not mess with your ego’s settings other than the bounce settings(that means dwell and your lpr) until you have put a good 10,000 rounds through it to break in the regulator
Once you have broken your ego in you will want to turn your lpr a couple of turns in and raise your dwell, see the tuning guide toward the end.
How to maintain your ego
After every day of play
1. Remove your bolt clean and lubricate it with a light gun oil(i.e. pmi gun oil, gold cup, triflow…)
2. Remove your rammer clean and lubricate with a light oil as listed above
http://www.planeteclipse.com/Folder...s/EgoRammer.wmv
3. Remove your eye covers and clean your eyes from any debris
http://www.planeteclipse.com/Folder...ips/EgoBBSS.wmv
Every so often
1. Remove your lpr clean and lubricate with a thick lube(i.e. slick honey, vaseline, dow55…)
http://www.planeteclipse.com/Folder...lips/EgoLPR.wmv
2. Tear down your inline regulator clean and lubricate with a thick lube as listed above
http://www.planeteclipse.com/Folder...lips/EgoLPR.wmv
3. Check your detents for wear and replace as necessary
Page numbers for quick reference in your ego manual
Read the page or two on how to properly take apart your ego before you attempt any maintenance or repair as explained below.
44-45 Removing and clean the break beam sensors (eyes) and detents
46-47 Tearing apart inline regulator and lubricating
48-49 Removing and lubricating the lpr
50-51 Removing the bolt and lubricating the rammer
52 Removing the grip frame
53 Removing the rammer housing, frm and lpr body
54-56 Reassembling the ego
57 Lubing the bolt
58-59 Removing and lubricating the solenoid
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Leaking from the grip frame
(most of these problems require you to remove your grip frame to resolve the problem so read your manual for step by step instructions on how to safely and properly remove your trigger frame.)
1. You have damaged your solenoid by screwing your rear grip screws in too far
Solution: buy new solenoid and replace, also find two tiny o-rings provided in your rebuild kit that comes with the ego and put those around the two rear grip screws, they will keep the screws from going too far in and damaging the solenoid, or grind the screws down. Note* eclipse no longer replaces them for free due to the widespread neglect of this issue
2. Your qev’s and or one of your barbs is leaking
Solution: Lube your rammer, lube will find its way into the qev and hopefully seal it up.
Check to make sure your barbs and hoses are intact and connected, and check the qev’s if they are loose and tighten as necessary.
3. Your rammer has a damaged o-ring
Solution: Remove rammer and check o-rings, there should be one that is damaged or dry that is allowing air to leak into the rear qev, replace as necessary.
4. Your solenoid is not secured well to the manifold
Solution: Take off your frame and make sure that the two vertical silver screws facing the bottom of the solenoid are tight and if leaking persists, remove both screws and check the 3 o-rings that are in a diagonal pattern on the stainless steal manifold and lube or replace as necessary.
Leaking down the barrel
1. Your exhaust valve is the cause
Solution: try shooting some shots with your ego and see if the problem goes away, if not proceed to put a few drops of light gun oil through the reg. asa and dry fire the gun for a few shots, if all else fails the exhaust valve must be replaced see
2. Improper sealing of the rammer housing
Solution: Tear down your gun to the rammer housing and inspect the front seals of the rammer housing and replace as necessary.
Your ego is having problems firing
1. Your bolt is not correctly placed in the rammer slot
Solution: pull bolt pin out and reposition to slide into the groove in the rammer
2. Your solenoid is damaged
Solution: Tear down your solenoid and lube and replace o-rings as necessary, and check solenoid housing for punctures from rear grip screws
Low velocity
1. Your rammer is dirty or needs lubing
Solution: remove rammer and clean and relube
2. There is a problem with your inline regulator
Solution: Open up your regulator and lubricate the spring stack (stack of washer like shims) with a thick lube such as slick honey. Also make sure there are 16 individual shims arranged in this order )()()()()()()()(
3. Your lpr needs lubrication
Solution: unscrew your lpr and lubricate with same lubricant as the inline regulator.
Your gun is chopping
1. Your detents are worn
Solution: remove eye covers and check your detents for tearing or if they are ripped and replace as necessary
2. Your eyes need cleaning or are damaged
Solution: Remove eye covers carefully remove eyes and clean, also inspect wires for nicks and scratches that could be the cause, and also check the eye plug is securely in the board.
BOARD OVERVIEW
Here is a short explanation of almost every setting in the board
Timing
Dwell-the time the rammer and bolt remain forward, raising it increases velocity and at some point will loose consistency, see the tuning guide at the end to tune this properly after your ego is broken in
Fsdo-the time that is added onto your regular dwell to increase velocity of your first shot to overcome first shot shoot down, this should be left stock unless you notice a really low first shot reading, then raise until it becomes inline with the rest of your shots
Off Rof-this is the rate of fire that the gun is capped at in semi with eyes off
Filter
Ball-the time the board needs to detect a break in the break beam to allow the next shot to register
Empty-the amount of time the board needs to detect a void between shots to allow the next shot to register
Pull-the amount of time the board needs to detect a trigger pull to be considered valid
Release- the amount of time the board needs to detect a release of the trigger to allow the next pull to be valid
TT tol-this is the amount the board has a tolerance for a bounce, the higher it is the less bounce it will allow through
TT band- this percent determines how far across the trigger pull the bounce filters work
Version 1.00
Semi-uncapped with eyes on and paint, capped to your “off rof†with eyes off
Psp- ramps up to 15bps starting at 4 bps with 1second restart
Cfoa-semi capped at 15bps
Millenium-ramps up to 15bps starting at 8bps
Taining-uncapped
Version 1.06 (max rof is capped at 15)
Semi 1- uncapped with eyes on and paint
Semi 2- semi capped at 15bps
Ramp1- ramps up to “max rof†starting at 4bps with 1second restart
Ramp2- ramps up to "max rof" starting at 8bps
Training-uncapped
EGO TUNING GUIDE
These are two posts posted by Jack Wood of planet eclipse in this thread,
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1082401
"The first think I would recommend, as mentioned above, is to increase the dwell up to 9, and maybe even 9.5-10.0
Some guns that leave the factory have to have the dwell raised over standard 8.0 ms in order to reach higher, more consistent readings, so it is normal and nothing to be conserned about. It is just a fact of life that some solenoids/QEVs require a slightly longer electrical pulse to achieve a consistent rammer pulse.
Jack Wood"
"That depends very much on the gun.
The only way to set it perfectly is to keep upping the dwell over the chrono. Stop upping the dwell when the velocity peaks, and then bring it back down a couple of points.
That should give maximum velocity for minimum dwell. Obviously every time you alter the LPR you should do this again to get it absolutely spot on. Also, if you find you get a massive gain in velocity when you start upping the dwell (ie it sends the velocity 320-330 +) then bring the in-line pressure down, leave the LPR and double check the dwell by dropping itand raising it back to the peak velocity.
Basically it isa very delicat interplay between in-line pressure (because that is what stops the valve from opening AND what fires theball out) LPR pressure, valve dwell and hammer/bolt/pin mass.
Jack"
From these two posts by jack wood i got these steps
1. Set lpr to the point you want, i hear 2 turns in from flush works like a dream
2. Keep raising the dwell over the chrono until it peaks, but if it begins to go above 320-330 then lower your inline a little, and then lower the dwell a bit and continue to raise it until it peaks. Then you are good. I have also noticed that if you just raise your dwell until the gun seems most consistent it works just as well, but keep in mind you will want some high quality paint to get accurate readings.
*NOTE* Settings aren't magic, they can't do anything beyond tune your gun and make it more or less bouncy. But as you have read not one set of settings will have the same effect on all egos, every ego is different, and for that matter every ego solenoid has a dwell at which it operates most efficently resulting in the best consistency. As for bounce settings it is next to impossible to share settings with somebody and hope that it will eliminate bounce, the best that you can do is to get some good baselines to work off of and tweak to your own trigger. So to recap, moose's settings aren't magical and won't necessarily work perfectly on your gun, the reason why moose's settings are infamous is mostly because the egos he sent out and tuned himself worked great because each had special attention, the same effect will not necessarily happen to your gun, so don't go setting hoping to find one set that works, make your own thats what the manual is there for.
thanks to dmansr25sd on pbn
EGO UPGRADES
1. Ego Solenoid
Planet Eclipse
$122.85
2. Ego Nexus Style Bolt and Pin
Planet Eclipse
$59.95
3. Ego D.A.R.T Bolt
Planet Eclipse
$55.00
4. Ego Exhaust Valve Kit
Planet Eclipse
$30.55
5. Ego Ball Detent Kit (x10)
Planet Eclipse
$9.00
6. Ego Colour Contrast Kit (Available In: Black, Blue, Red, Gold Dust, Gold Polish, Silver Dust, Silver Polish)
Planet Eclipse
$79.95
7. Ego Colored Grip (Available In: Black, Blue, Red, Silver, White)
Planet Eclipse
$22.90
8. Ego Eclipse STAR FRM (Front Reg Mount) (Available In: Black, Blue, Gold, Red)
Planet Eclipse
$39.95
9. Ego Eclipse STAR Trigger (Available In: Black, Blue, Red, Gold)
Planet Eclipse
$24.95
10. Eclipse Ego 3D Jewels (Available In: Black, Gold)
Planet Eclipse
$2.99
11. Ego Stars and Stripes Eye Covers.
Planet Eclipse
$42.30
12. Ego Comprehensive Parts Kit
Planet Eclipse
$49.95
13. Hyrbid Contract Killer Grips (aka. Bad Guy Grips) (Available In: Black, Blue, Red, Yellow)
Hybrid Paintball Products
$24.95
14. Hybrid Ego Grenade Grips - Camo
Hybrid Paintball Products
$24.95
15. Hybrid Lady Grips (Available In: Black, Blue, Red, Yellow)
Hyrbid Paintball Products
$24.95
16. Critical Paintball Ego Adjustable Ram Cap (Available In: as of now, Black, more colors hopefully to come later)
Critical Paintball
$29.99
17. Hybrid EGO Adjustable Ram Cap (Available In: Black, Blue, Red)
Hybrid Paintball Products
$24.95
18. Trinity EGO No-Rise Feedneck (Available In: Black, Blue, Silver, Red, Gold)
Trinity Paintball
$39.99
Thanks to:
dmansr25sd
P8ntbll288
from pbnation for their help on this
More Ego information to come, PM me on all of your ego questions and problems
I can tune your Ego for $20 that includes lubing, tuning, full on cleaning, settings, lpr settings, I have the infamous "moose settings" and I assure you the settings I have are faster and more consistent for anyone's trigger fingers..